SolarB

My pair from ebay lasted nearly a full year. :)

I drained my tank the other day (someone put petrol in the TDi) with one of those cheap hand pup things, the type with the cylindrical bellows, and a long length of tubing. There doesn't appear to be any anti-syphoning devices in the filler neck.

A bit late for you now but I managed to wind my pistons back in last weekend with molegrips. You have to push really hard while turning clockwise. Must order myself one of those tools.

Only if you want the hearer to fire up.

Actually no, I haven't changed it for 3-4 years. Looks like I know what I'm doing this weekend........

I had the same problem. Aux. heater working (if a little randomly), temperature gauge rock steady at 90 degrees but only warm air coming out of the front and rear vents. I had the aux. heater out at the weekend because it was blowing an awful lot of white smoke and my wife was a little nervous despite my best efforts to calm her. Perhaps shouting FIRE when she pulled up doing an excellent impressions of the Red Arrows making a low pass wasn't the best idea. Took the heater apart on the bench for a look and re-built it, though unfortunately there were no obvious faults. Once back on the car the heater would fire up with the temperature sensor bypassed but only run for a few minutes before locking out with a high temperature fault code, which usually means the electric water pump isn't circulating water to the heater. Took it apart and managed to get it working again (must order some new brushes) and put it back on the car. Now the booster heater is happy and the air coming out of the front and rear vents is actually hot. Really hot! I suspect the electric water pump has been intermittent ever since I've had the car as the heater has always been warm at best and the booster heater has a mind of it's own. Now I've got to work out why there is hardly any air coming out of the front vents even though the fan makes a racket.

Took my Galaxy last week to a guy in Horley while trying to trace an A/C fault. He didn't find the fault but I knew it was an intermittent electrical problem, I just wanted to confirm quantity of coolant. oil and that the system was leak tight before I started playing with sensors and other things. We spent a couple of hours playing with the A/C and eliminating various parts of the system and he really couldn't have been more helpful. I wanted to replace any broken parts myself and we worked out which was the most likely culprit. A real old school guy, interested in what he does and cares about helping people, I'll never go elsewhere again. I don't know how far you are from Horley but he's Mark at http://www.autobrite.co.uk/contact.htm 01293 825632 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting

I have a new dual pressure switch on order for my 2001 1.9TDi (the switch under the front offside headlight). The Ford TIS mentions de-pressurising the system for many jobs on the A/C but for this one it just says jack the car up, remove the wheel arch liner and replace the switch. Is there a valve or membrane in the pipe junction that stops the coolant leaking or am I missing something?

Hmmmmm. I have the same symptoms. Good gas and no leaks, comes on for 10 seconds and then off. If I turn the aircon off and then on again I get another 10 seconds of cold air. Does anyone have any suggestions>

Some have flats, some have a hex key recess on the inside on the bolt. If yo don't have hex keys there should be flats hidden under the dust cover.

Sorted - didn't realise the 4mm drill bit comes in at an angle from the rear of the car rather than at 90 degrees to the plate. Rotating the tensioner cam shits the pivot point of the tensioner pully and the arm of the pully fore or aft. Even though the piston of the pre-tensioner protrudes 6mm above the surrounding area it's possible to set a 4mm gap because the arm slopes downwards from the pivot point towards the drivers feet. Thanks for the advice tin-spam.

I'm in the middle of changing the cambelt on my Y reg 1.9Tdi. All's going well but I can't work out this tensioner thing with the 4mm drill bit. Ford TIS says: "Using the special tool, rotate the timing belt tensioner cam clockwise and remove the special tool" I assume they mean remove tool 310-084 (though why they number tools and then don't use the number in the text is beyond me). Removing 310-084 allows the piston to rise from the pre-tensioner and push on the arm of the tensioner pully, giving a gap of 15-20mm. http://s437.photobucket.com/albums/qq91/solarb/TIS2.jpg TIS then says: "Using the spacial tool, rotate the timing belt cam tensioner clockwise until the drill bit (4mm) can be inserted. Then tighten the nut in two stages." However, with 310-084 removed there's no way I can rotate the tensioner clockwise. To do this I would have to force the piston back down and that's just not going to happen. To push the piston back into it's housing I had to use a vise. http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq91/solarb/TIS1.jpg Even is TIS is incorrect and I set the 4mm gap BEFORE removing 310-084 the minimum gap is 6mm (set by the piston). These photos show the relative positions with and without 310-084. http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq91/solarb/Pully1.jpg http://s437.photobucket.com/albums/qq91/solarb/Pully2.jpg So, what am I doing wrong and where do I measure with the 4mm drill bit? :huh: Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for all the advice people. Will order the crank locking tool. Have various bent nosed pliers, circlip pliers and bits of bent metal for the tensioner pulley Will use tippex everywhere and take photos just in case. Have a selection of drill bits on standby. Should get a chance next weekend.

Right. Will buy a kit with the tensioner as well. Crank locking tool is only

I intend to change the cambelt on my 2001 TDi (engine code AUY) in the next couple of weeks and would appreciate advise from anyone who's done it before. I have a copy of the Ford TIS which gives, as far as I can see, a pretty good guide to belt replacement. I'm sure I've heard that it's sensible to replace the water pump during cambelt changes so I'll do that as well. The current shopping list is: Cambelt Tensioner pully Water pump Water pump gasket Accessory drive belt Is there anything I've missed that I'm going to need or should replace while I'm doing this job? Also, the TIS shows a crank locking tool and a couple of other "special tools". Do I actually need these or can the job be done without them? If I really do need them, can anyone point me in the right direction?