DaveJH

Thanks guys for your help and company over the years. Problems with my left foot have meant that I have had to sell my beloved Galaxy Mk2 and move to an automatic car. I have had two Mk2 Galaxy vehicles and enjoyed 1/4 million happy miles. I have a few bits and bob left over. For those trying to quickly whip out their headlight cluster to change a bulb and have had to use a long reach driver to contend with pesky corroded star-hex screws, I have a couple of sets of A1 stainless steel star-hex screws to which I have epoxy glued A1 stainless steel washers. Message me if you want a set of 4 for the cost of the postage. I also have a brand new handbrake tensioning spring, that goes at the end of the cable from the handbrake cable (its actually between the Yoke and the chassis member - if you have been under the car you will know what I mean). Message me as above. VAC COM http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272846334769 Headlight Protectors/ Adapters http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272845827388 Haynes Manual http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272845831491 Again, thanks for your company. Out of habit I shall probably look in from time to time Regards DaveJH

The heavy current lead taking the Alternator supply to the Battery is interrupted by a Junction Box/Fusible Link Box which is located at the front of the engine bay just under the battery cover. It is takes only a moment to check the condition of the box, and press in the side clips to check the terminal lugs. The compression lug on the cable from the alternator can deteriorate with age increasing its resistance and causing it to heat up. This then enters a vicious cycle: the heating causes the lug resistance to increase, which causes more heating etc. Eventually the alternator current will be so restricted that the “Alternator Workshop” warning light will come on, plus VAG codes associated with low supply voltage at the ECU etc. The problem is that the heat generated by the terminal may do significant damage before the Alternator Workshop symbol alerts you to the problem. In my case not only was the inside of the terminal block and cables damaged, but also the top of the terminal box was burnt through allowing heat to escape upwards. (See photos - if I manage to upload them correctly). Excellent details of how to replace the box and repair/replace the cables can be found in the thread for “Alternator Workshop”.

Thanks - I will order stick-on wide angle bits and see how it goes. DaveJH

2005 Mk 2 Galaxy TDI 150bhp, Giha. Having just returned from yet another continental journey (just beating the Calais blockade) and much Belgium motorway mileage, I want to replace the heated convex door mirrors -both sides- with mirrors with blind spot coverage (typically they have a vertical line and angled edge mirror). The passenger side blind spot is just as dangerous for continental use as the drivers side is for UK use. My preference is for new morror incl backing plate, rather than a stick on job. I have tried searching online, but only seem to find drivers side stick on mirrors. Have not tried looking under Alhambra - which are usually better equipped - as I am not sure if they are the same. Advise or suggestions on sources would be much appreciated. Presumably If I find the mirrors,the old ones will pull out with a sucker or something. Regards DaveJH.

Gregors, sorry predictive text on my iPad altered your name!

Greeters Thanks for your reply, for my Galaxy it is in the expanded list of minor features that it simply says ' with anti theft alarm fitted' and I can't dig deeper ( assuming that etis members get more info) . I will follow insanitybeard's suggestion and see if my simple VAG-COM will reveal anything ( I normally it only use if for error codes) and I shall have a look in the fuse panel area for any id's if that is where the alarm module is hidden. Regards DaveJH

I have fabricated a couple of stainless steel torx screws with attached washers (the wonders of araldite) for exactly this job - contact me if you get stuck . Dave JH

Gregers, Xavier Following your advice I followed the link to "etis" and under the vehicle details it included "with anti theft alarm fitted". I could not find further details - are these only available to etis subscribers ? (Subscription is 50 euro) Regards DaveJH

I have a 55 plate Galaxy Ghia, 150bhp, and need to identify the type of the original equipment alarm system. eg Ford 40, oor 10T, or 20T, or 40T. or Ford 100, 200, or 300 etc. The alarm system is fully functioning, I just need to identify the type. Alternatively, any indication/proof that the origianl alarm was Thatcham Cat 1 (w.r.t to the Thatcham Cat 1 that applied at the time of manufacture as these alarms were generally delisted in 2007) would be useful. Any help would be much appreciated. Regards DaveJH

Have finally managed to remove the front headlight units on my Mk2 Galaxy - the problem being that the almost inaccessible rear bottom lug fixing screws ( the torx self tapping screws with integrated fixed washers) were extremely corroded and the torx sockets stripped during removal. Even then one would not remove and had to force the lug from under the screw before extracting the screw with mole grips. Does anyone know where I can get replacements (Ford dealer and their suppliers do not stock), or alternatively what size the self tapper screw is so that I can fabricate a replacement using araldite and a washer? Regards DaveJH

BrianH. As I wrote the info on my tyres, I seemed to recall that the tyres were not particularly old. A quick check in my records show that they are 14 months old, have done 15000 miles, and are already down to 2.5mm. I have used Michelin tyres on the Galaxy for years, and got 30000 out of the last set of Primacy. Clearly the newer Primacy3 are not quite the same composition, I have not noticed any change in grip but they have obviously left more rubber on the road. Continentals next time then. DaveJH

BrianH: Tyres Michelin Primacy 3. 215/55R16 97W. 2.5-3.0mm tread Viperclive: thanks for your experience. Inner track rod end suggestion interesting- had not thought of that. DaveJH

Mk2 TDi 150bhp 120k miles, experiences vibration (some strong) at front & steering when driving of roads with slightly corrugated surfaces. Problem only occurs on slightly corrugated surfaces at speeds >50 mph and vibration is independent of acceleration, overrun, left or right turns, but increases with braking. Problem occurred both before and after rebalancing of all wheels. Tyre seem to be in good condition ( < 20k miles) and pressures correct. Front discs and pads replaced within last 10k miles. Please note that the problem does not occur on smooth or undulating roads or genuinely rough roads, nor when braking on such roads. The question is where to start? Damper/shocks/ drive shafts/stiff CVJs, bushes/bearings. Any advice appreciated DaveJH

If it is like mine, the DVD player only works if the radio in the front console is also switched on. Regards DaveJH

inchley, chrispb Thanks for your relies - will do - as soon as I get the car back from trip to south of England. Also thanks for your reminder that cam belt due for replacement at the 120k interval which is coming up. Seems sensible to accelerate the service and get the sensors and cam belt sorted in one go. Regards DaveJH.