Davo

Hello, Something similar happened to me. It turned out that the chip had fallen out of the key (never found it). I am pretty sure it clicked but never turned. Definitely the light flashed on the door. Didn't really think it was the battery because the sidelights didnt dim but checked the battery, the engine connections you name it. Of course I gave the spare key to the garage and, what do you know, started first time. Felt like a fool, so if you have a spare key alway worth giving it a try. Mine was a 1998 galaxy. I now have newer Galaxy and it allows the engine to turn with a chip-less key. It sort of fires but gives up after a second. Hope this helps

I had a 1998 MkI and I feel sure that the remote two-press thing worked, but since it didn't have an alarm, I didn't really use it that much. Now I have a 2001 MKII with an alarm, and the remote two-press doesn't seem to work. I didn't try too hard because I began to doubt whether it ever worked on the old car. The point of this post is to say that it also works by turning the key in the lock twice (in the "locking" direction). It works both from the driver's side and the passenger side, and probably from the tailgate.

I am getting tht funny noise when changing gear. I am not getting the loss of power. I would love to know what the noise is. I hope it's not my turbo about to fail. The noise is hard to describe: the best I can do is that is sounds like some boy racer in the distance is setting off too fast at the traffic lights on a wet day and slipping the tyres a bit. I don't think it is the clutch because it seems to be when the engine is decelerating rather than when I am putting my foot on the clutch. (I will test that by decelerating the engine with the car in neutral.)

I would like to commend this forum without which I would not have been able to fix my parking sensor problem. I am posting this to clarify something I did not pick up when reading the posts on parking sensors. I read that there was a tick when the parking sensors were switched on so I organised one of my children to sit in the car switching the parking sensors on and off. I now realise that the parking sensors tick constantly the whole time while they are switched on not just once the moment they are switched on as I had thought. I thought that by posting this I might save someone some money which I just wasted on child labour. My parking sensors have not worked since I got he car, but, knowing that the senors should tick, I was able to find the one which was not ticking. It was the nearside rear one. I swapped it with another one and found it was still the near side rear one not ticking. So I checked the wiring and after fiddling with it, one of the wires was so corroded it came away. I removed the bad bit, soldered it back together, and the parking system now works perfectly - no replacement parts required. I have read in these posts that it seems to be the nearside rear wiring which is prone to failing. I do not have the VAG-COM thing but its sound like I should get one.

I had a problem with my 1.9 TDi where it would overheat and pressure would build up. It was the cylinder head where the problem was, but the oil was perfect. Initially it wouldn't heat up much but the water needed replacing after a while. Pressure was getting into the cooling system from the cylinders and then when the engine was of, the pressure would force water (slowly) back into the engine. I think that is what was happening. No problems driving around town, only happened when pushing the car hard. As things got worse it would happen more severely and airlocks would occur in the cooling system and the engine temp guage whold go up while the heating would blow cold. Got the cylinder head flettened off or something like that and replaced with a new gasket and all back to normal. Now it has started happening again after 2 or three years.

Some of the earlier posts on this subject, mention sudden loss of power which is immedietely restored after switching off engine and restarting, without any mention of any warning indicators. Could these posts be suffering from a dodgy MAF (air flow sensor) rather than turbo problems? Am I right in thinking that if one experiences the turbo problems mentioned in the original post, that a warning immediately appears on the dashboard? P.S. I hear a funny noise almost like a distant tyre screech when changing gears or otherwise reducing revs on the engine while driving. No loss of turbo power - is my turbo about to go? - Should I start a new topic for this?

Wouldn't it simply be a faulty the door open switch on that door? If it is, then the light on the door will come on if you open another door. Broken wiring going into the door wouldn't make any difference to the door open on the dashboard, or the headlight warning beep. The swith is on the body of the car at the bottom rear where the door closes, near the botton of the center pillar.