GaryM

From my experience with swapping out the standard lamps with LED ones I think you may find that you get lamp failures showing on the dash and strange other symptoms like the LEDs staying on just a little bit when the ignition is off. They way around this would be to fit a dummy load (power resistor) to simulate that of the normal lamps.

Probably the most obvious locations are the ignition switch or the back of the Stereo. The stereo is where I have tapped in for my phone cradle

I've run with these and the EGR cooler removed for sometime now. For me there was a definite increase of MPG albeit only 2-3 and it has helped reduce the soot etc.

Just checked and I actually took the feed from the drivers side rear quarter window switch. +12V = Brown with Grey trace 0V = Black with Blue trace BTW to get access, unclip the whole panel working from the back sides while pulling down. It should sort of hinge down towards the windscreen as there are longer lugs in the front holding it all in place. Picture is not vey clear I'm affraid but the feed to the guts of the ciggy PSU are the two Black wires... http://www.morban.co.uk/MiscImages/UpperPowerTakeOff.JPG

Yep, without taking a look I can't remember where I tapped in. I you are lucky I might take a peek later Mine is micro USB as well so I just used a ciggy adaptor and wired the supply to that before insulating it

I managed to find an ignition switched feed above the courtsey light and took it from there as that is where my crash cam is, by the mirror. Saves trailing cables.

I previously had a MKII and that broke down on the Motorway with a flat battery. I eventually chased the fault to a black fuse box to the front passenger side of the engine bay. This had all melted which meant that the charge was not getting back to the battery... http://www.morban.co.uk/MiscImages/BurntFuseBox.JPG

Aircon, one port at front by the radiator and the other (the one you want) under the tray & scuttle by the wipers. Best way to acces is to remove the wipers, top tray and lower tray. Does not take that long. Other question, can't help I'm afraid

Don't know but it is high. Can't leave my motor for to many days until the battery is flat. What is intresting is that a while back I deceided to upgrade a lot of the minor bulbs to LED and found that they stayed on all the time, albeit at limited brightness. So this has got to be one contributing factor.

I've changed the ones in the tailgate to red led jobbies mainly because they are more durable against the continued slaming of the door. Just be aware that you cannot do them all (ones in the right and left main body) else the trickle current will keep them lit all the time.

Mine would be fuel, when was the filter last changed?

I know there are plenty waiting in the wings to flame but from what I can see so far the EGR is only good for sale and a few thousand miles thereafter. Then the inlet mafifold, oil etc all start to get polluted and the MPG drops. So now you are using more fuel and carrying the weight of an in effective system. More pollution? As for the MOT certainly the current tests do not see any difference, actually no they see things as better cause there is often less smoke. No doubt that will change. As it stands now the egr blanking plate is a very quick install and remove so could be done either side of the mot

Yep, clean the galvanising around where the lamp holder twists in. That's what fixed mine

Given the date of the post i guess you have fitted this already. Tis a simple job and as long as the valve is still working I don't think you will get a dash light. Well I didn't on my 1.8. In the end I removed the cooler as well after a strip down for a turbo change. Saves carrying unesssary weight Regular 43mph without any effort

One bolt and simple to get to you just need to prise off the triangular trim from inside then you will find it is not loose but the thin metal in that location has bent. Try a large penny washer to spread the load and retighten