hitchhiker

I have removed the wiper arms completely and the spindles rotate (apparently) normally - but it *still* makes this strange noise when they are first activated. I have now removed the c-clip and o-rings and have been feeding some graphite based anti-seize lubricant into the spindle housing to see if that helps. Will have to put the arms back on Fri for a run to Wales so I will know by then if it has gotten any better. HH

Hi Boomac Did you ever get to the bottom of this problem? My Mk1 (also 2000 reg) has developed the same symptoms. I was assuming the linkage was seizing up but now im not so sure. Helicopter noise usually goes away if i play with the wier setting a while but the sweep is getting very unreliable, as if it was seizing up. Wiper motor gearbox perhaps? HH

My rad fan has recently been kicking in when the engine is cold as some of you have described. It also continues to run for about 30secs after ignition off even if the engine is only started briefly. I suspected a faulty temp sensor but my temp guage functions normally and anyway i thought the fan operation was determined by the sensor in the middle of the upper rad hose, rather than the one by the engine block/thermostat housing. Marty16610, which sensor did you change to fix your fan problem? Was it tricky/messy to do? How much was the new sensor? Cold-starting has been a big problem for my gal recently. First i changed the battery - no improvement :huh: . Then i changed all the glow plugs (one was open-circuit) but still no improvement! :huh: I now suspect a temp sensor problem because if the ECU thinks the engine is always warm due to a faulty sensor it might command an insufficient fuel volume for cold starting conditions? Anyone knowledgeable about such things care to comment? Anyway, I'm taking it to a local garage later tomorrow for a fault code read-out so hopefully the fault will show up... HH

Thanks for the replies. The new one certainly is a sealed calcium/lead acid type but i dont know about the old one (gives no indication on case). I have a heated windscreen but only manual g/box and AC. HH

Seems my main battery sensed the seasonal drop in temperature before i did and almost failed to start up the motor yesterday. Appears to be the original one so 5 years isnt too bad a stint i guess. Now the worrying bit... I bought a replacement from a local motor factors but have noticed that it is only rated at 65Ah (the original was 95Ah). It is also physically only 2/3rds the size of the original. The new one is a Viper (ref 010) and according to their catalogue this is correct for a diesel galaxy. Should i trust them or am i likely to get starting or endurance problems this winter? What battery makes/ratings have other owners had fitted in their vehicles? HH

Just added my recent ACU failure to the current poll :) I guess i'm as guilty as the majority for not using it regularly during colder months of the year. Perhaps now paying the price for this. And if that wasnt bad enough, the missus, me & 3 offspring are off to Austria in the Gal later this week. Needless to say no garage would even look at the AC at such short notice. However after reading about other owner's experiences (ie. woes) im reluctant to hand the car over to a garage until i can be more confident that it wont make me bankrupt to repair. I have a 2000W (Mk1) 1.9tdi Zetec model with manual AC which has never been re-gassed. What doesn't work when i press the AC switch (air temp control dial): 1. No cool air (obviously) 2. No decrease in rpm running at idle What does work when i press the AC switch (air temp control dial): 1. The AC indicator light (very reassuring) 2. The 2nd (lower) rad cooling fan comes on immediately Suggests to me that: 1. System is pressurised enough to permit fan operation (or is it too dumb to do otherwise?) 2. Compressor clutch not engaging I'm hoping it might just be a diy'able relay or sensor failure but not having much luck even locating the relevant (auxillary?) fuse/relay box using the Haynes manual. ANy other ideas anyone? HH

Agree with seatkid. I couldn't see any differences between the old and new MAF sensors but i didn't take the old sensor out of its housing to look closely in case i needed to put it back. A thin layer of corrosion on the internal components would be hard to determine with the naked eye anyway i guess. I didn't try driving with the old one disconnected because the mechanic said he was sure it was faulty. I think it should be a standard service replacement item at about 40k (depends on predominant driving conditions of course). Good luck on Saturday. If the old one turns out to be ok you can always keep the new one for a later time when the MAF does need replacing. HH

Just to add my $0.10 worth... When i had my 2000W, 1.9dti gal serviced recently, the mechanic said the power was a bit down in the upper rev range and suspected the MAF sensor. I said i dont often go over 2500rpm ( :) ) and hadnt noticed the power loss except when trying to overtake lorries on hills (no chance). So i took a risk and got a new MAF from vag-components as recommened on this forum (cost