shelbournes

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Car-Keyless-Remote-C...id=p3286.c0.m14 would the one above be o.k. ...so do i need one with the solenoids like below http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...E:X:RTQ:GB:1123 thanks so much for your help so far... great to know i don't have to change the locks once again

Sorry this may be one of my thicko questions I have a galaxy N reg that I have replaced the locks on 3 times in 4 years ... Both the drivers door and passenger doors seam to go every now and then I am currently unlocking/locking from the boot... to my question Is it possible to by pass the central locking with a remote version I see there are a load on ebay that state that your can ... but I would like to know from the wonderful people on here that are usually so helpful I can use the handles to open as normal ...just need to know whether I can replace with remote locking and NOT have to replace the lock parts again ..... hope someone could find the time to reply If anyone has already done this please could they let me know which KIT they used from ebay and roughly how long it took ...thanks so much for your time as always shelbournes

Right finally done it ... No problems at all ...changed the barrel in the lock to the existing one which is better Can honestly say seamed a doddle the only hard part is to get the spring back in .... In the manual it states that you have to turn it 180% this is not the case ...just make sure the clip on the spring goes either side ...works fine then they are for MK2 not the original galaxy ... so your locks may not be the same ... they are very sinular though thanks for those techs ...they were soooo useful Kind regards ....mark

thanks so much the double switch on the driver side only allows the windows to go down the single switch on the passenger side only lets the windows goes down too so none of the 3 up switches work (ie 2 drivers side 1 on passenger) before replacing the lock handle they had intermittant faults but now they have gone completly I have checked under the passenger seat and it is bone dry so I don't think the problem is there the wiring in the drivers door all appears to be o.k. the switches have all been tested with a multi meter and all pins are working I will try to work out which two wires run the down button on the doors and check those wires individually does anyone know whether there is a relay (I.E> which number) for the windows as I feel it coulg possibly be a fault there Thanks again for your help and support mark

Once again ...help needed 1996 ford (bloody) galaxy 2.0i L n reg Still got this car ...don't know why anyway I have a problem with the electric windows when you press the down buttons on the drivers door the passenger window and drivers window goes downwith no problems BUT when you press the up buttons on the drivers side or passenger side nothing happens You have to close the windows by turn the key in the lock when the doors closed and they will go up then I have checked the switch and there is defiantly nothing wrong with that I have recently fixed a lock problem so I could have done something wrong then but have traced all the connections and they all seam to be fine What I really would like to know is which relay runs the windows (if there is one) or any other suggestions to a cause thanks for all your help in advance king regards to you all shelbournes

thanks for the schemes ...so handy .... am waiting for a key and lock/handle from ebay ..... so might have the problem solved soon .... A word of advice to you all ...it would seem that a major cause of locks snapping is partly a fault of the key I have just sanded mine down (lightly sanded) as the edges are a litle worn and hey presto ...they slide in and out fantastically i was sarting to feel that the passenger side was getting a little hard to open and now brilliant... so this may be worth a try ... lightly sand the edge down ... as this seams to have the most benefit ....belive me it works regards and thanks to all those who helped especially those diagrams shelbournes

definatly worth the post we all need a reminder .... Remembering to use the 30w 5 oil as this does appear to work well with the galaxy and keeps it oiled up likewise with the water washers ...how many times have a driven to find the wife must have washed her hair under the water jets as there is none left only to start chucking bottles of water out the window over the front windscreen .... regards .,... shelbournes

unfortunatly they are right ... a new replacement is the only option as with the movement of the wiper the ball jointy thingy will come apart again ...this is general wear You could try a scrap yard as they sometime have the wiper mounts still connected to the car... obviously not usually the wiper arm Have a ring round the local scrappys before spending the money at Frauds ...sorry fords regards shelbournes

the temperature sender is connected to the water thermostat on the right side of your engine... you can just about get your hand down to it and remove the Connection plug to it If you spray it with wd40 then it may get the connection back if the fault is there ... I have had a simular fault where mine doesn't go up much until you hit traffic if the interior of your car is warming with the air coming in within 5/7 mins there there shouldn't be too much of a problem there... however if you have constant cold and then hot coming in the car through the vents then your thermostat isn't opening properly this can lead to head gasket problems so be aware of that Is your car loosing water at all ...in the water expansion tank ..if not then don't worry Kind regards and I hope this is of help shelbournes

DOES ANYONE HAVE A SCHEMATIC/ LABELLED DRAWING FOR THE PARTS THAT THE DRIVERS LOCK GOES INTO... I have a problem with the drivers door locking there would appear to be a part broken off ... does anyone have a schematic or tecnical drawing of the lock mount.... What would be even better is if anyone has one for sale on here I could even replace the hold drivers handle including lock and key if anyone has one .... ebay is a dead loss ...Have been looking for a month on there now hope you can help thanks for all your time ..kind regards ....shelbournes

yep ...mine is definatly disconnected ...and it works better than before I.e. no coughing no spluttering ...lacks a bit of acceleration but it'sbetter than the problems I had before... It is definatly suspect (it is the sensor with the 2 resistor type things inside)

ahhh interesting .... Well back to the topic .... I do seam to be getting about 30mile to the gallon on short runs now approx 40 on long distance To add to the game... I took apart the maf sensor and on of the little resistor/heat temps has come away from the pin ...this will be fun to get back on.... But i think I have a way (oohhh..... you can't solder it ...it doesn't work) will try and get back to you Think this is going to solve loads of prolems out there Check your MAFS if you are chugging that's what I say ...will be back soon Kind regards shelbournes

I have recently been having problems with our N REG galaxy petrol 2.0L it kept chugging... I recently unplugged it and it has stopped messing about so I have left the sensor unplugged (was going to clean the Maf unit) My question is what Could happen if I leave it unplugged does it really need to be plugged in anyway as the car is running much better now approx 90% there please could domeone give me a technical view on this ... thanks so much for your time ...Mark

so should the light be on When driving the light will stay static red for a period of time is this normal thanks for the reply

I have heared that the red LED in the drivers door indicates different things within the engine management or is it just a flashing led that is part of the alrm system sorry for the stupid question but i am clutching at straws now regards ...mark