rjhwuk

I have found the a/c and heating to work well on all the Galaxy models. Pattern faults excepted. One thing that can make quite a difference to the capability of the heater and a/c on any vehicle is the pollen filter. I have found that these are often choked and as a result the air movement is restricted and it's the volume of air that's moving around that makes the system cool you and the interior down. Being fiddly, they are often omited during servicing so it may be worth checking if your a/c and heating are not performing well. You can check it by comparing the air movement through a vent with your hand while switching the recirc button on and off with air direncted through the central face vents only, fan on maximum. If there's a significant difference then there's a good chance you have found the problem. Hope this helps, RHW

It is quite common for the a/c pipes to fail on these, I saw 3 in one week recently. The pipes seem to be too short and fracture on the "U" bend near the compressor but I have also seen them break at the top by the low pressure service valve. Strictly speaking, the receiver drier should also be replaced as it will have become saturated with moisture if the system has been opened for any time. The condenser should not need replacing. Hope this helps, RHW

A system with rear a/c will have a pair of refrigerant pipes running to the rear of the vehicle. These will be in addition to the two coolant pipes that also run to the rear heater. As a guide with system at normal operating temperature, coolant pipes will be one hot one warm/hot. A/C pipes one warm/hot and the other cold. In these circumstances you need to compare how much gas has been removed with what was put in to establish the extent of any leak. Kwik-Fit should be able to tell you this as it will be on the print out. Hope this helps, RHW

Sounds like the high pressure switch or relay on the a/c is faulty - it switches the fan on in order to cool the refrigerant in the condenser. You need to get this checked by an a/c specialist. He will be able to check the high side pressure against the fan activity. Hope this helps, RHW

If there is a good supply to the clutch and the end plate does not spin when the a/c is switched on then the clutch coil has probably burnt out due to overheat when the compressor seized. To check if there is a good supply use a filament test light. That will draw a good current and will not glow if there is a poor supply. If you have a meter then a good clutch coil should have a restistance of between 4 and 8 ohms. The recirculation flap is in the heater plenum. Hope this helps, RHW