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springen

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Everything posted by springen

  1. I can't find any on ebay (what did you search for?) - have you got a link please ?
  2. You probably know already - but if you are new to automatics - selector stick has to be in 'P' or 'N' to allow engine to start !
  3. I don't know the reason why you are removing the door trim, but if it is because you need to replace one of those round 'fragile' speaker grills, you don't need to remove the whole panel. I've changed all of mine, when they have been damaged, by just removing the broken grills. I did this by VERY carefully by breaking the grills into small removable pieces (careful not to damage the speaker cone). This just leaves the round rim which can be eased off. I then just carefully stuck the new replacements on with some 'contact' glue (evo-stick). There is a 'notch' that you have to line up. Dead easy and they have stayed put perfectly for the past 4 years.
  4. Spent a long time today fixing this problem and eventually succeeded. For the benefit of others who may suffer the same fate, I'll explain what I did. I first attempted to get to the cable from underneath the car after putting it up on ramps and removing the under-engine tray. Pulling on the cable will not work-I'll explain later why. After studying SEATKID's picture above I could see that if I removed the two bolts holding the catch I could raise the bonnet. You'll note that one of the bolts has to be undone from the engine side and the other through the front grill. You can just manage to undo the inside bolt by reaching up from underneath (10mm) using a small socket wrench. The bolt (also 10mm) through the front grill can be reached using a small extension bar and knuckle joint. Once they are both undone then the bonnet can be raised. Once I could get to the catch I could see that the end of the inner-cable wire had pulled through the hole in the bracket. The end of the inner-cable wire terminates with an 'S' shaped clamp that just passes through the hole and relies on it's shape to stop it coming out. Therefore if pulled really hard it WILL pull through. When the lever in the car is pulled it is actually the outer cable sheath that PUSHES on the catch lever to operate the bonnet catch. I found that my cable had stretched. I took up the slack by padding out the gap between the outer-cable and the part of the catch that it operates on with a small nut. I also bent the end of the end of cable more so that it didn't pull out. Of course all of the above applies to the Mk1 Alhambra/Galaxy/Sharon. I cannot comment on the Mk2 - but I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't update/improve the design !!
  5. Ah-ha - I had the same problem before - slammed it really hard and it stayed shut Hoorah I thought !! But now a week or so has gone by and I need some washer water - and now it will not open !! The cable at the puller handle has gone all slack looks like I might of busted something - oops !!
  6. musotechy - Did you ever manage to get your bonnet open ? - if so how did you do it in the end. I too have now got this problem. Peering through the front grill, slightly to the top-right of the 'S' (it's a SEAT!), I can see a bolt (10 or 11 mm). I reckon I could just about undo this bolt with a socket and extension. Would anybody, who can get their bonnet open, be able to tell me if undoing this bolt would assist me ? Mk1 1997 Seat 1.9Tdi
  7. I had a spanner on the flats jammed up against the suspension leg, but trying to turn the nut just resulted in bending the link arm. It was basically bl**dy tight. Anyway did it in the end. All part of the fun of working on cars yourself !
  8. You're not kidding took me hours too. I managed to bend the old bar totally out of shape - wish I had taken a picture of it now. I think the problem is you are working against the 'anti-rollbar' which flexes. Reckon you need to 'jerk it off' - Oops that will get censored - but I hope you know what I mean!! I had to use a 'nut-splitter' in the end. I only did the N/S the O/S is OK at the moment.
  9. Thanks Mustie - reckon I'll go for two.
  10. How much should I expect to pay for one of these links ? Are they 'handed' left and right ? On Swedish, German & French parts website they appear to be
  11. My reversing lights have stopped working. I've checked the bulbs and fuse and they are OK. Tailgate wiring looks OK, but I'll need to check it further. The gearbox switch does not look very easy to get at. Has anybody else experienced this problem, before I dig deeper ??
  12. For anyone interested the link below gives details of the product sold at Halfords :- http://www.id-usa.com/product.asp?CID=27&PID=92 Saw it advertised in Auto Express (issue 873) page 73. Just had my Air Con re-gassed, but may try it next time - will watch this thread with interest !!
  13. Excellant 'upgrade' tips here - I'm going to go for the footwell lights too. You're very lucky if you manage to find a Galaxy, Sharan or Alhambra in a scrapy - there's none around here ! (Medway, Kent) Mention was made of the wires for the foglights being behind the bumper. I've noticed this too - anybody done this upgrade. This would also require a replacement headlamp dash switch which included front fogs - I inquired about this switch and it was going to cost about
  14. I always change the Oil & filter myself. Mines a Tdi. Once you've got the 'belly' cover off, its not very difficult (on the diesel anyway). I have managed to remove the cover by putting one wheel up on the kerb and pushing it to the rear of the car, but it's far easier with ramps-but make sure they can take the weight ! I prefer to do it myself for several reasons :- the cost, ensure use of the correct oil (diesel must use VW spec), better to drain then suck out via dipstick tube and will always have some left over for topping up. I also change it more often than the recommended 10,000 miles (normally I do it every 5-6000). Changing the pollen filter is fiddly, but not difficult - you can get it from Halfords. - At least your Air Con is still working ! Good luck.
  15. :( The garage rang to say that it needed new cables - cost
  16. 1997 Seat Alhambra 1.9 Tdi manual (was!) On my way to work this morning the gear lever went very sloppy, and it will now only go into what appears to be 3rd and 4th (and reverse). I struggled to work (not easy pulling away in 3rd up any sort of hill). I'm currently waiting for Green Flag to pick it up and take me to SEAT in Maidstone. I'm hoping that it's one of the cables that has come-off or broken. Any thoughts gratefully received - to calm my worried Visa card !! I'll let you know the outcome. :rolleyes:
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