willywagga

Thanks for the input guys, the Maf has been checked many times, with no fault there, nor the n75 sensor. The local chap here suspects the EGR valve, he's carried out tests on the injectors and said they have uniform expected readings. Here's hoping the EGR is the culprit, is this a difficult/expensive problem to solve. Thanks again

Hi, I've been here with this ongoing problem before, and I still have it. 2001 tdi pd engine, main dealers checked all sensors, ended up suggesting the turbo, replaced that €1400 no improvement, they may as well have washed the car, they wanted to replace the injectors, I just can't afford that, they seemed to be guessing and I've given up on them. I brought the car to a small nearby auto electrician who did some tests of his own (keep in mind at this stage the car has been to 5 others who couldn't find any fault including maindealer with all the gear) he found that firstly the car is using 35mg of fuel per second when it should be using 14mg. He suspects either the fuel pump is at fault or the ECU. At around 2000rpm diesel is pumped into the car at an awful rate. The car is brutally sluggish to drive particularly from a standing position. At this stage I've spent over €3000 trying to get this sorted, at this stage it's not worth replacing the Ecu or the fuel pump. Anybody got any ideas what I should do.

I've got a Seat Alhambra 1.9tdi se 2001. 115 bhp Auy engine. My turbo is shagged and I need to get a new one. Looking for around

Thanks Seatkid, I think that is the only option for me at this stage. I will make enquiries tomorrow and let you know how I get on.

Thanks for all the replies. It's a 2001 Alhambra SE 1.9Tdi pd engine. When I bought it it drove very nicely, started overheating, brought it to a mechanic. Replaced the timing belt, water pump etc. He called me to tell me that the cam shaft was worn and would need a new one, I gulped hard and said ok, head needed skimming etc. Got the car back but it just did not feel right: dead, non responsive, for instance sometimes when I press the accelerator there would be no response at all. I brought the car back and after 3 weeks of b*****t he refitted the old cam but the car is still very dead especially from a stationary position. Both myself and my wife use the car and we're fairly moderate drivers, much of our driving is urban and we get about 250 miles out of a tank, which I know is brutal. I tried driving the car without the MAF but it was much worse. When I bring the car to a different mechanic I feel i'm just gonna be fleeced, and my car still wont work. How do I go about cleaning the turbo, if you think that might be the problem. Mileage is around 90000mls. There's a brief cloud of whiteish smoke when the car starts first thing in the morning, lasts 5 seconds. Thanks for everything.

Hi any help appreciated, I've had the car for over a year and I know somethings wrong. Very slow response from a stationary position, have had the MAF changed did not improve anything, tried another MAF which was slightly worse. Getting around 20Mpg around town and an absolute best of 36 Mpg long distance open road driving. I know the car should be doing much better. I don't know where to start, my last experience of a mechanic left me

Thanks adrian that seems to have worked a treat. Buttons fully mobile. Great Cheers.

Thanks for that Nik but can I prise off the small rectancular buttons from the front without removing the console. Only one button is affected, since the car came back from garage :ph34r: . not sure if it's just a coincidence.

Just wondering, the air conditioning buttons on my Seat alhambra are sticky and at the moment the decreasing low main button gets stuck in causing the air to turn off when the fan speed drops to lowest, and needs to be freed with a small pin, any ideas how I can take them off and clean them. Or would there be a spring broken behind. Any help would be great.

Update !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just thought I'd let you all know how things have been with my dear Alhambra, well they checked the injectors:ok. They checked just about everything possible. blah,blah etc. Finally decided to remove the new cam shaft and replace the old one and........bingo.... power back the way it was when I left the car in to have the overheating issue sorted 7 weeks ago. They were given the wrong part. I must collect the car tomorrow. I will be wanting the cost of the camshaft back seeing as my car doesn't seem to actually need it replaced, plenty of power, spins the wheels in second gear etc. I do deserve money back right. And probably for the MAF, but I'd settle on the cost of the cam and the labour fitting it etc. So how's that, I've aged 2 years I have erectile dysfunction etc Jeez lol

spoke to the mech on monday morning, he said all these parameters were checked,(we're not amateurs here) not the rocker, not the turbo: car has full boost. So he's taken the injectors out to have them tested, which to me means new bloody injectors. Anybody want to buy a haunted alhambra.

Thanks jr for those suggestions, they are very worth mentioning to my mechanic before he removes my injectors. AS there wasn't a problem in this area before he stripped the head this would suggest to me that the work he carried out caused this new problem, and that it is his responsibility to fix. Him being a considerable mechanic has him in the lofty position of being able to ignore suggestions I might make. At the moment he has the upper hand and calls the shots as regards what might be the cause of the problem, with me picking up the tab. I'm really beginning to think that the cam belt was incorrectly fitted, itself causing the low power or causing the injectors to misbehave causing the low power issues. Thanks for the advice. Not sure if this is a turbo issue, on the basis of my crude descriptions would you describe the problem as a turbo related matter. I'll mention this to the mech and see what he says.

it idles at around 1100 rpm but doesn't sound like it. It sounds lower than reads. In order to move away from a stationary position efficiently I have to prime it with a couple of revs otherwise it crawls away. I can't explain this in a technical sense.

Ok thanks for that jr, I'll mention that to him on monday morning when I call him. I've noticed that the car seems to idle at around 1100 rpm. Pulling away from traffic lights the car seems to falter and drag its ass until revs hit about 1600rpm then it takes off like a hot snot. This slow uptake can happen in any gear it seem when the revs are low.

The mechanic has all the diagnostic computer equipment required, he tested all the sensors they were all clear, he's baffled. He does all the high end testing that I think is available. I brought my car to him for that reason. He said it happened that injectors behaved erratically after the head was removed and skimmed, these particular injectors are a pump as well so might be a reason, and that I should have them tested which should cost about