jonbob

I think Mirez did a total clean out of inlet manifold and EGR valve with clear dismantling details, its in the faqs i think Jon

Does this age of Galaxy have a DMF ?

If anyone is interested, Eurocar parts have a free oil filter and 25% off their 5l QX brand oil, use code easter25 in the checkout Jon

Could be a stuck caliper or broken return spring, both known problems on the galaxy. The most common caliper to seize is on the drivers side. Jon

Adrian The symptoms you describe about wandering idle speed and temp gauge are exactly the same as on my 130 tdi when the water temp sensor went, also it may be worth checking the electric run on pump as well as you may find this kaput as well. As the others have said VAG COM will show the fault code (well it did on mine) Jon

Guys What in your experience is the best device to bleed the brakes, I have both an easibleed and a non return valve type. Cheers Jon

Having had my heater on my work bench for a couple of years,having stripped and cleaned it out, i have decided to put it back on the car. The model is the latest D5Z-F and I did have the dreaded 65335 fault code. I will give it a go but the gaskets are shot , does anyone know if they are generic erbespacher gaskets available from the likes of PF jones or do I need to go to VW, and if so has anyone got the part nos. For about £30 its worth a shot before I spend a couple of hundred ( and wait till next winter) on a recon unit. Thanks Jon

Hi folks Has anyone got or used one of these devices, have got a few things to do on the galaxy ( and my rover 25) such as driveshafts and potentially a new rear hub/bearing. Obviously as a basic DIY home mechanic a compressor and gun is out of the question and wont be anywhere near cost effective, but I can justify 50-80 quid for one of these, Thoughts please Jon

Hi Folks service time and i'm going to do it myself this time, At my local motor factors I get a nice discount for being in the ambulance service, the oil they have supplied is planet oil, IT IS VW 505.01 spec PD oil. I noticed it is 'bottled' by Comma. Has any one used this stuff, got it for a not unreasonable £20 + vat for 5 litres, Cheers Jon

fault 1: more than likely lost all or most of the gas, pipe that has a u bend and goes down side of condensor to the compressor is usual culprit, plenty of posts here about it fault 2:if your brake lights are working its probably the clutch pedal switch (assuming its tdi) about 16 quid from a vw dealer (its the blue one)

I have got the same problem with the same split on the u bend, not got round to getting it off yet (due to typical British May weather-not needed), but have been quoted

Hi Folks Brake pedal switch has bitten the dust, bought a new one but broke it putting it in (a common prblems as well I believe), anyway in my search for a motor factors open on a Sunday, I came across this, Its a bit chunkier than the original, but fits fine, and the best part it seems to be based on a simple switch as opposed to the self adjusting plunger, and to be fair seems better made, no adjustment necessary, just put it in, and the cost, just £4.62 from Car Spares ltd based in Birmingham. Only thing is this company does not list a similar item for the clutch pedal switch for the Cruise control, so off to VW I go. Regards Jon

Sorry mate, it was the cog that broke on mine too Jon

Hi I do believe these relays are made by a company called Maypole electronics, which are based on the Woodgate Valley business park in Birmingham. Try googling them, you may get lucky there Jon

one other possibility which happened with mine was the water temp sensor Jon

If you like your current Gal, how about replacing it with a late model Sharan or Alhambra, both of which made up until recently, thats my current plan when I get rid of my Galaxy in 2-3 years time. Jon

Could be the DMF, when mine went the clutch started slipping and the was a noticable judder when pulling off in first or in reverse, no judder though once rolling (just the slipping clutch) and no real noise at idle. One wild card may be perhaps the alternator pulley bearings are shot and the vibration off the belt being transfered through the crank pulley, when mine went the car was very noisy at tickover but raise the revs slightly and the noise went, it was also tricky to drive slowly, new alternator (under warranty) and everything was nice and smooth again (for a diesel anyway) Jon

Try these guys, have used them in the past for my caravan www.sealsdirect.co.uk

On the mark II TDi, is there not already some wiring under the front passenger seat for the optional programmable auxilliary heater battery, which would already have a split charge supply? Jon

I would forget Halfrauds, look for a local paint factors who can make it up on the spot, my local does a 100ml tin (laquer included) for

Erm cheers for that Andy, but to be fair I only want to rub out a few rust spots on our second car (an 8 year old rover 25), just to make it last a few years longer, just wanted to make a decentish job, most of which is below the trim line. Interesting post though, Thanks Jon

Hi Guys Does anyone have any tips for blending metallic paintwork, should I use rubbing compound or would T cut suffice before the final laquer and polish. Thanks Jon

I believe on early mark II's that it was a common problem for the pipe to corrode and leak close to the condensor. Once all the gas has escaped the system will stop working anyway so hopefully no other damage caused. A replacement condensor with mods is available and whilst the system is degassed should be a straight forward (if tricky) replacement job Jon

you can't use the free version to alter anything, as regards specification, VCDS gives the specs underneath the actual readings. Regards Jon

Phil, I think you need to program both keys together within 15 seconds of each other. Instructions should be in your manual Jon