davetech

Can you take a photo of the display when it does this and post it on here?

It was about £150. An old colleague of mine would completely agree with you. He said the best vehicle he EVER had was an old Previa, and wholly regretted replacing it with VW Sharan.

It was a direct remap, not a chip. To be honest (this is just my opinion), I wouldn't trust anything a Ford Dealer told me. I have been lied to consistently throughout ownership of my current Galaxy by more than one Ford dealer. It's as if they don't give a damn about their customers once the warranty period has expired; as if they expect you to buy a new car every time. In this case it has back-fired on them, as when this Galaxy dies, I will not be replacing it with another Ford. This is actually a shame, because the vehicle itself has served me well (and still is); it's the customer service of their franchises that has driven me away.

I have the aforementioned lesser BHP version (which has incidentally been "tweaked" to over 200BHP). This has increased the average fuel consumption from around 50mpg to around 55mpg. De-tuning and reducing the power means it needs more fuel to get to and maintain cruising speed (hence the improvement in consumption with the power increase).

Hello Mike. Welcome.

Hello Ollie.

A few weeks ago, the wife phoned me at work to tell me it briefly started then stopped. When she called the AA, the very nice man cleaned up the throttle body a little bit and it started. He then gave the throttle body a thorough clean up, and it has been perfect ever since. Worth a look.

If you haven't already solved this... Disconnect the battery. Then you can disconnect the connectors to the seat. The airbags won't deploy without an electrical supply (which you would have upon impact when driving).

If the rescue bloke just jump started it, it could be a loose connection, possibly the battery terminal itself (especially as you say the battery has recently been changed). Especially check the other end of the earth where it attaches to the body. When my father-in-law had a new battery fitted to his Honda Civic, the 17 year old oik who they got to fit it just hammered the positive clamp on with the back of his adjustable spanner and pushed the negative on by hand (which I tightened when my father-in-law told me what he had seen).

Every time I click on a new link in Ford Galaxy Owners Club, I get the attached: Anybody else get this or has any ideas?

Hello and welcome. If all electrical faults happened at the same time on the tailgate, I would be tracing the loom back and checking the main rear loom connector (and earth as you suggested). A quick Google/images of "Galaxy Mk3 Rear Loom" brings up loads of pics of the loom, but not exactly how to trace it through the car. Let us know how you get on, because others can learn from your endeavours and will appreciate it.

If the wheels are spinning, I would suggest your clutch is fine. Sounds like possibly a Traction Control issue. Any codes showing?

Thanks gregers. I don't think the wiring has degraded at all (none evident on my 2008 Mk3 anyway). The bigger wattage bulb is what was fitted originally; the problem was when I replaced it with a lower wattage bulb, the computer didn't like the lower wattage one. All is well with a new original sized bulb.

I recently received the dash message about the brake light bulb error. After trawling forums, and reading the scare stories of wiring looms or ballast resistors, thought I'd check the bulb. I managed to release the rear brake light easily by: removing the trim from the inside opposite the brake light (just pulls off), then using a torch looking into the holes, pressed the metal clips with my fingers and the light unit simply pushed out. (Don't bother removing the bulb housing from the light unit while it is fitted to the car, as you won't get it back in without removing the light unit anyway). When I discovered the bulb blown (12V 16W wedge type), I replaced it with a 5W version as I thought it might be a temporary fix to eliminate the error. The light came on, flickered a bit, then went off and the dash message re-appeared. I then learned the computer checks the current drawn and the 5W bulb is not drawing enough current, so the computer sees an error. I purchased a 16W bulb from eBay for a few pence and now fitted, the error has gone and the high level brake light is back. Long story short, although the capless fittings are the same, use a 16W bulb, not a 5W (common) bulb.

Thanks Brian. That's what I was trying, but failed to do.