pat19581

hi somtimes the car wont start i have to move it from park to drive and back to park a lot of times to get it to start some times it,s ok and starts in park first time whats the first thing i should look at

all sorted now put in a new blue sensor cleaned the other 2 they was coated with oily gunk cleand the spark plugs reset the codes and she,s running ok now

you have to have the tool to get the spark plug leads out it part number 021012213 from a vw dealer its a long plastic thing 14 pounds got one today

thanks do you think its worth claening them or put new ones,s in

tested the header tank sensor today and its faulty i think the oil i got in the coolent system must have gunged it up but cant get to that one to clean it. now if it gunged that one up could it have done that to some other sensors like the ones in the photo the yellow is the water sensor the blue is the temp sensor and brown the fan and if one was faulty would this give me my idling problem

ok thanks for that with the light flashing the header tank has plenty of water in it do you think it might be a sencer and the light starts flashing even if the car is not running but with the ignition key turnd to position 2 and the engine is cold. i have unpluged the maff cleard the codes left it unpluged but get the fault codes back so i get fault cod with or without the maf connected they come strait back the only wire i moved when i did the oil cooler was the one that runs along from right to left and is in front of the new water pipe i had to replace when doing the oil cooler the plastic bit of pipe that the water pipe goes into the oil cooler i think they plug into the allternater

dont take it off! if you do you'll need to replace the gasket between it and the inlet manofold! go get a can of carb cleaner, RTFM and then remove the inlet hose from the throttle body and squirt it in wipe out the throttle body with a soft cloth, trying not to disturb the butterfly to much! then with the engine running open the throttle and spray inside it! the fluid will get sucked into the engine! and depending on how much you spray in the engine may stall! as for the flashing fluid warning light? IIRC flashing is low fluid, on perminant it overheating! ok thanks for that with the light flashing the header tank has plenty of water in it do you think it might be a sencer

hi went to vw today they said to try cleaning the throttle body first before trying a new maf so ill give that a go are they easy to get of .now if that dont work and it might be a wiring fault is there any way i can test the plug that goas into the maf i have a circuit tester but how do i test if im geting a currant ,now today i had the temperature light start flashing hader tank ok and its not over heating the needle stays just in the norm it dont start flashing until the cars running for 20seconds this car has one problem arfter a nother

the idle speed is control by the throttle postion sensor/motor there is no ISV or other means of setting the idle speed on the VR6, adjusting the cable tension yourself will totally screw up the idle speed! the valve you show in your picture is a flame trap valve and is prone to breaking up as is the hose its mounted in! check it for splits in the convolutions in it and in the main air hose to the throttle body ok thanks is it best to take it of to get a beter look at it

Short to B+ means its seeing 12V when expecting a signal so you either have a wiring fault or the MAF itself is defective. Try leaving it unplugged, resetting the code and then starting the car. If the fault comes back again immediately then the wiring is defective or damaged. If not then you have a faulty MAF. ok ill give that a go there was one thing to get it to idle i pull the throttle cable clip out and moved the cable a bit put the clip back in so it was idleling beter took it for a long run when i stoped the car was idleing verry high so i ajusted the cable down a bit tikeover beter then it goes back to how it was ill give that a go with unpluging the maf next

ok i put a new bit of pipe on but still not ideling and still get 00553 mass air flow sensor (g70)28.00 short to b+

would that give a error code for the maf then

tried to add this to my other post, found this pipe that was broken would this be why the car is not ideling properly its on the left hand side near the maf

ok ill give that a go thanks

hi fixd the oil cooler car ran ok for cam back next time i went out the car was not idleing just kept cuting out its ok if you rev the car up drives ok just will not idle vagcom found some codes 00553 mass air flow sensor (g70) 28.00 short to b+ and 00516 closed throttle idle posion switch (f60) cleard the codes but 00553 comes back any help someone its a v6 2.8

hi can anyone helpi was fitting a new oil cooler its 4 the 2.8 v6 the oil cooler has 2 water pipes that come out of it ,one goes to the block the other to the plastic coolant pipe which runs along the front of the engine does anyone know how this plastic coolent pipe comes out as i have 2 replace it as it snaped at the connection stub on the plastic pipe that runs along the top

wheres the oil cooler its a mark one vr6

whent to top up header tank today and found brown sludge in it the car runs ok oil ok and not over heating its a vr6

no didnt remove front end you can get to them from under the car if you jack it up take of the under sheild they fidly to get to but not to bad

got it sorted now it goes to the secndery air soleniod tuck,d away under the inlet manifold

i have a pipe thats not conected one end ,does anyone know what this goes to its item 16 the one with ther arow it,s a v6 2.8 n reg

got my scanner working now

this is from the haynes manual left hand driveshaft removal remove the road wheel trim/hub cap (as applicable) then apply the handbrake, and partially slacken the hub bolt with the vehicle resting on its wheels note that the hub is very tight, and a suitable extension bar will probably be requierd to aid slackening.also slacken the roadwheel securing bolts 2apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands remove wheel 3 remove the two retaining nuts and four screws (2 each side) then remove the undershields from beneath the engine/transmission unit to gain access to the driveshafts 4undo the retaining nut anddetach the antiroll bar link rod from the suspension strut.use a open ended spanner to stop the link rod balljoint from rotating5 release the brake hose and abs harness from the retaining brackets on the suspension strut 6slacken and remove the two retaining allen bolts and separate the lower arm balljoint from the hub carrier 7 fully unscrew the driveshaft to hub bolt and washer, and pull the hub carrier from the driveshaft end do not allow the driveshaft to hang down under its own weight or joint may be damaged AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION MODELS 8 disconnect the transmission range sensor wiring plug from the rear of the casing.using a multi splined tool slacken and remove the bolts securing the inner driveshaft joint to the transmission flange and where applicable recover the retaining plates from underneath the bolts. manoever the driveshaft from under the car MANUAL TRANSMISSION MODELS 10 using a lever carefully prise the inner joint from the final drive casing ensure the lever does not damage the seal surfaces of the inner joint. manoever the driveshaft from under the car be prepared for oil spillage thats the left hand drive shaft if you need the right hand side just ask its slightly difarente

can any one tell me if the central locking is positive or negative triggered on the mark one it has the ir system but i got a keyless entry system to upgrade it and can it be wired into the old unit under the seat the unit i have is a rightclick keyless entry system ke60b-plus got it of ebay