fionnmacz

I had this after replacing drop links, it was merely the lower nut holding the new link needed an extra 1/4 turn! Unbel. noise for such a minor issue. check 'em all again with an extra twist..........! dont buy crap links from ebay.....my last ones only lasted 9 months...be careful what you buy.

this sounds like my prob last year with my petrol sharan. I changed the air temp sensor, there were apparently a bad batch of them in late 90's , and the prob was resolved. runs perfectly now. maybe you should have yours checked.......may be - may be not the prob.........

Hi all After replacing the 'wear out ' drop links (susp. links behind each wheel) about 12 months ago (about 9k miles), I find they are banging away again over bumps. I will assume that I used cheap rubbish the last time. Not being one for off roading, all I can think is that my wider than standard alloy wheels (factory fitted) cause more pressure on this fragile part........ Can anyone give me a brand or source for this part that will last me longer ??

It was the brake switch........after trying everything else, the contacts were dirty and with a scrub up, all is well! cheers biguns'

where do i find the brake switch, and how do i check it please ?

ok ......I feel dumb. rear brake lights stopped working, and have tried all but the fuse. how do i get into the darned fusebox! I cannot remove the plastic cover over the top of them in the footwell. it is about to get bust off !

the engine tells me it was built in 1999, but maybe that is actually 1979 with a german lisp. the shell says 1998, but it speaks portugese! Thanks folks, I will get to work on it......

I have now identified the choke seems to be an issue. It cut out a couple of times on me after a few minutes of starting. Any ideas on choke faults on these anyone ??

hi...checked all the links but no real answer for me...... no probs for the last year with my shazz 1.8T 20v, since the wiper slowdown got me (fixed with removal, drilling and grease) and climate packed up (fixed by opening the windows for cool air, roll on july); until last week. Car Starts fine from cold but turns over for 10-20 secs and struggles to start from hot. This will put pressure on the battery/starter and my nerves! Also noticed the rpm jumps up by 1000 or so when changing gear sometimes whilst travelling thru town for a minute or so until it seems to settle (not my poor clutch control, I checked!) Do the detectives out there have a suggestion where to start looking: plugs leads ht ecu etc...........

as ivor says, its the coolant level low indicator when it flashes. mine did this (see coolant leak post about 6 weeks ago) and it was a rear heater valve leak half way down the vehicle underside on the nearside under the rear passenger door area. i was confused because there was no leak from the engine area. simple to replace, part is about

wolfman, see my post on 9th april. I still see galaxsharanalhambs with vertical wipers on the M5 ! We get ripped off................

yep trust me for having a 1.8t petrol........ 'no aftermarket companies do your exhaust as its not a common version' i was told, 5, no 6 times. have to buy from main dealer, and it looked like it too, until the kwik fit man came to the rescue! they tried hard and finally sourced them from another obscure company and retail at about

my wipers stopped, but not fuses (may be a cause rather than a symptom) the spindle on the wiper is machined too tightly to the sleeve, and seizes up if not oiled up. I checked vw/seat/ford as i was advised to get a whole new wiper system (at

Have problem with my wagon, in that only vw allegedly make an exhaust for my 1.8 turbo petrol. cost for rear and mid pipe,

ok answer found. the black box is a coolant heater valve for the rear heater, faulty. part is about