huwb

Well it did deteriorate over time so last month I tried http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1021-red-line-superlight-shockproof-gear-oil-70w-75.aspx as it's supposed to behave like an ATF in some respects - synchros like low viscosity. The reality is that super lightweight has quite a high viscosity and things got worse. In desperation I popped some cheap ATF in there and things are much better. I'm not holding my breath as with each oil change there is a little yellow metal coming out so the synchros are probably wearing quickly. I am a slightly concerned that ATF is out of spec but a lot of manual gearboxes use ATF and auto box bearings seem to manage fine with it.

Hi Jamie, I hope you have fixed this but there may be some useful information here if not: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/25203-starting-problems-and-buying-the-correct-fault-reader/?p=180133 http://forums.t5d5.org/topic/22133-diesel-cold-starting-problems/

I fitted one of these 20 miles ago: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EGR-valve-blanking-plate-Ford-2-0-TDCi-Peugeot-2-0HDi-Citroen-2-0-HDi-Volvo-2-0-/110907922480 Started fine and drives fine. I can't honestly say I noticed much difference in performance. Initially I thought it was slightly less responsive to throttle pedal inputs but after further evaluation it is probably no different. It may be a bit punchier in the peak torque range but again this may be placebo. I am always amazed by how these little PSA units pull when they're running properly. It idles smoothly at 800 rpm as before. No limp mode and no engine management light - the Volvo light comes on intermediately if I idle for a short while. My motivations are: The inlet manifold is already gunging up at 60k and the manifold sensors/flapper were thick with soot/oil paste recently. Engine oil is black within a few miles even with a fill/drain/fill procedure. Performance was significantly improved on my 2005 Volvo D5. The DPF should see less soot and after my issues a while ago this is desirable. Happy days.

I have an EGR/DPF delete thread on the go but I thought this deserved a query of it's own as the information applies to anybody getting their vehicle remapped whether deleting stuff or not. My question: Is it worth taking the car to a main dealer for plugging in to the "Ford computer" to have any software updates prior to remapping as the tuning company I'm considering will copy whatever software is there and amend rather than flashing a generic file? It seems the right thing to do to get it all up to date before taking the plunge. A local dealership said they would need it all day and they charge a fee of £130 no matter how many hours it spends updating - they also said there would likely be quite a few changes in the 3 years it hasn't been to a Ford garage but impossible to be sure without actually plugging it in (they can't go off my VIN number for instance). I'm guessing I wouldn't need to go there and specify symptoms or request particular updates and that just hooking it up to their system will automatically identify what needs doing. I have no problem paying the £130 just wondered if my peers thought it likely anything has actually changed. I did read somewhere that there is an update for electrohydraulic power steering and that might be handy as ours was iffy over the last winter. Ta, Huw.

That's how I see it too.

Just to confirm it wasn't placebo and changing into 1st/2nd has improved over the last 700 miles. Worthwhile.

Thanks Gary, I haven't got around to it yet but it's on my list. My nuclear option would be removal of DPF, EGR blank and then remapping to suit. This scares me a little as who knows what MOT emissions checks may be afoot. There will be no external evidence so it's tempting.

Well it seems to have worked as before the thrashing it would limp and give malfunction messages every day and it hasn't happened since.

What engine size is this? There is no in tank pump on my 2.0 TDCi. When I replaced our fuel filter recently (my first ever diesel filter change) I attached some rubber tube to the screw-in valve at the top of the filter assembly and used a mityvac suction tool to draw fuel up. Provided fuel is drawn through the filter you should be OK.

While I'm sat at my PC I thought I'd add that EGR delete software is available so that the EML does not appear when the EGR is blanked. The software changed just tell the ECU not to check EGR operation hence no light. My blanking plate arrived today and EGR delete is available as a no-cost option with a remap from Shark performance (Peugeot 2.0HDi engine is also used in the Focus): http://www.sharkperformance.co.uk/brands/Ford/Focus/2.0TDCi%20136hp/ I'm just not sure I want the extra oomph of a remap as our clutch is probably already on borrowed time due my terrible towing exploits. To be fair there is adequate performance in it as standard but I do like the idea of not filling the intake with filth and we intend keeping the car for quite a while. Hmm...

Our 2007 2.0 TDCi has probably never gone into first or second gear very well - especially on a down-change to first when rolling towards a junction. I thought it was just a quirk of the gearbox but as we tow a caravan with it I decided to change the transmission fluid. The hardest part was working out which gearbox we have and what fluid that needs. ETIS told me it's a 6MMT box and several webpages on various forums plus a handy chemicals guide from Volvo helped me decide I needed a WSS-M2C200-D2 fluid. It takes just under 2 litres of fluid and I replaced it this afternoon. The oil coming out was dark brown and had a disconcerting but not terrible smattering of yellow metal particles in it - though I have seen worse in my failed Volvo M56 box which ran (wildly) out of spec fluid for a while. Fluid going in was yellow. First impressions are probably flawed by overly optimistic placebo effect but on a little test drive it will pop into first and second on rolling down-changes without needing a hefty shove of the gear lever. It's not like a knife though butter but it seems easier - this week will tell as it's my wifes car and she will be a better barometer of my efforts. ETIS website (handy for service schedules etc): http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleSelection.do Volvo chemicals catalogue (see page 40): https://www.dropbox.com/s/stqv38b3aw4e10k/Volvo%20chemicals%20and%20lubricants.pdf Also attached if I've done it properly: Volvo chemicals and lubricants.pdf Link to Opieoils for correct spec fluid: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-69412-castrol-syntrans-fe-75w-full-synthetic-gear-oil-gl4.aspx. I could have bought transmission fluid from Ford but as the man at the dealer was a bit unsure when I asked him what I needed I decided to leave well alone.

Ours does it to. They also come back on with a tap on the cluster.

I hope you fixed it. Apologies for a thread resurrection but ours wouldn't start when cold for for months so I changed fuel filter, battery and switched to 0W30 oil. Neither the fuel filter or battery helped but oddly enough the oil did. This led me to consider there wasn't sufficient cranking speed to start (fuel pressure will be low if cranking is slow-ish though I hadn't noticed it was slow). There is no in tank pump as the garage I took it to suggested - they even managed to order a pump from Ford! The garage also changed a relay somewhere to no avail. The glow plugs are buried at the back of our Peugeot engined 2.0 TDCi so god knows how I would check those. A friend said to try some voltage drop tests to check the positive feed to the starter motor and negative earth connections. All were fine except for excessive voltage drop across the starter motor flange and starter body itself. This foxed me but I took a punt on it meaning there was excessive internal resistance in the starter. I fitted an aftermarket starter and hey presto all fine again. Voltage drop tests: http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm Where I bought my starter: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Victoria-autoparts

I've driven the car ~100 miles at 75mph in 4th gear (just over 3000 rpm) for the last 2 days in an effort to clean anything out of the system that wasn't helping. So far no recurrence and although I strongly suspect placebo effect it feels more eager generally. This might turn into a thread where I talk to myself but I will probably post again to confirm whether it really has made a difference.

Not yet. Is there a workshop manual available for these vehicles? I will take a look under there anyway as it doesn't hurt to get an idea of what sits where. Thanks, Huw.