Jump to content
Ford Galaxy Owners Club

alterego

Members
  • Posts

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Fields

  • Vehicle Type
    Seat Alhambra 1.9 Tdi
  • Vehicle Model
    Seat
  • Region
    North East

alterego's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/8)

0

Reputation

  1. I'll second that! I'm off to GF&S tomorrow to see if they can fix my car. Its a Tdi that used to do 60mpg, but since I converted it to LPG it won't bloody start! Anyway, I think a meet is a jolly good idea, so where do you suggest? :16:
  2. Could be low oil pressure , which could be due to one of several reasons. If possible get the oil pressure checked. I expect you've changed the oil and filter? Otherwise.... 1. Oil sump pickup could be blocked. - this has been reported several times - remove sump and clean oil pump pickup. 2. Try flushing oil to clean the oilways.
  3. DOT4 is the correct fluid, according to the Mk.1 owners manual
  4. The glow plugs on the Shalaxy TDI/PD diesel engines are not a dual coil device. They are simply heated tips which take about 10 amps each and two or three seconds to reach red hot temperature. When you turn the ignition key, the ECU works out from the engine and ambient temperature whether to energise the glowplugs and for how long - they are either on of off. The tips are situated very close to the injector spray pattern. In cold weather, and with a cold engine, particularly if the engine cranks slowly, the compression stroke may not heat up the cylinder air charge sufficiently to ignite the diesel. The red hot glow plugs ensure that ignition occurs in the vicinty of the plugs at least, once the engine starts the chamber temperatures rise quickly and after a few seconds, the ECU will turn the glow plugs off. The ECU cannot check whether the glow plugs are working or not - they operate via a simple relay. The glow plug light is the ECU's advice for you to wait until it think the temperatures are hot enough for a trouble free start. The glow plugs do continue to operate for 3 or 4 seconds after the light has gone out. Symptoms of a faulty glowplug are difficult starting from cold with increased smoke and rough running for a few seconds after starting. If you don't wait long enough you might experience rough or lumpy running for a few seconds. AFAIK, at temperatures of 20 deg plus ambient or if the engine is warm, the glow plugs do not activate at all. It only takes one or two faulty glow plugs to make starting in cold weather a pig. Unfortunately, like spark plugs, glow plugs tend to have a limited life and they are worth checking after about 30,000 miles. To check the glow plugs you need to remove the engine cover, and pull the busbar rail off the glow plugs (this require a hefty tug). Check each for resistance to the engine block. They are usually 0.15 ohm to 0.3 ohm. Faulty plugs are usually open circuit or several hundred ohms plus. If you don't have a multimeter - use a 12v bulb (6w to 21W) - if it lights via a plug (other end to +12v), the plug is OK. Avoid cheap glowplugs - they dont last long - sometimes only a matter of weeks. I recommend NGK, Beru or Bosch. Use a good motor factor or major company like GSF,Eurocarparts or www.vwspares.co.uk, they will be less than half the price of a dealer and will be the genuine item unlike some Ebay bargains.
  5. The coilpak is the usual culprit.
  6. 5 beeps - error message indicating faulty crankshaft position sensor output. Caused by low battery voltage or faulty sensor/wiring.
  7. From what I've read it's possibly the connectors to the injectors on the injector loom. Basically a dodgy connection to an injector affected by certain levels and frequency of vibration. Apparently its a known issue in the dealer network. Try taking off the connections (under the rocker cover) and cleaning them, examine them and check they are not loose when refitted. However the connector(s) may be shagged out so dealers would usually fit a new loom with new plugs.
×
×
  • Create New...