naim32

I did .. they wouldn't go in fully. Turned out one of the rollers had come off so the whole driveshaft came out for a re-build. Job done and now all back together with new outer CV joint.

The car is a Mk2 1.9TDI auto I'm changing the outer CV joint and whilst trying to get the old one off I pulled the inner joint apart. Reading through some instructions many seem to think this is a no-no but is this really such a big deal for the tripod type joint? Can I not just push the tripod back in or is there another issue I should be aware of? neil

I forgot to mention that the reason I'm asking about an impact/hub socket is that I'm not convinced that the normal socket will hold up with the torque required. Has anyone any experience breaking (or not) a normal socket trying to do this.

The CV joints need doing but I only have a normal type socket that fits loosely (27mm). What size impact socket / hub socket do I need? It's a 1.9TDI Mk2 Automatic Cheers Neil

The o-rings came out of a selection kit. I picked the nearest match to the originals, the new ones being 2mm thickness. The older ones looked less than 2mm but I thought that they may just be squashed like worn o-rings. When fitting the valve, it felt like a tight fit, tighter than with the originals. The leakage however seems the same with both the old and new orings. I did a search for the valve on ebay and part of the description said that it was common for these to crack during a filter change. Has anyone experienced this? Also I'm thinking of doing a bodge repair by running a small bead of silicone sealant around the base of the valve to try and seal the gap between the valve and the canister.

Car : Ford Galaxy 1.9TDI yr 2001 (mk2) I have a fuel leak at the fuel filter. It seems to be originating around where the control valve goes into the filter. The filter was recently changed during a service and this is when it started leaking. I changed both the o-rings on the control valve but this has made no difference. For the original o-rings there was a blue one and a black one. Does anyone know what the difference is? Is it really that important to replace them with exactly the same? I just fitted two black o-rings I had from an o-ring kit. Also the filter has no bracket and is only held in place by the fuel pipes. Is this normal for the galaxy? The pipes seem to vibrate the control valve so I guess any bad fit of the o-rings will be opened up. The filter itself seems to be cheaper afermarket one. Has anyone had any similar problems with these. I'm thinking that maybe the hole where the control valve fits is distorted and this is why the orings are not sealing the join. BTW I have reclamped all the pipes to rule out bad hose connections. There is only fuel on the control valve pipes but I think that this is just coming from the control valve itself.

I've just had an airbag warning light. I bought a 15 quid vagcom lead off ebay with 4.09 shareware. This read and cleared the codes without any issues ( apart from not working under vista). The lead also appears to be able to read and clear other common problems like the aux heater ( winter coming up) and the parking sensors.

Does anyone know where to get, apart from Ford, a headlamp level motor for a MKII. The headlamps are normal and not xenon. I'm looking for the little black box that sits in the headlamp.

Mk II, 1.9TDI GHIA, Automatic Hi An airbag waring has now just appeared in the text console, and the yellow seatbelt warning light now is on. Having checked around the seatbelt clip and inside the pillar I can't find any wiring for any seatbelt detectors. Also all the fuses seem to be OK. Is this the same symptom as the other airbag problems in the forum. Also, another parking sensor has died. Anyone know of any available. Neil.

Just tried super glue but it wouldn't bond at all. This is on a MK2 so I don't know if different plastic is used or if the glue is no good. The sensor itself seems intermittent, some days it works, others not. It doesn't tick like the others.

Whilst trying to take out a parking sensor the housing which holds it also broke off. I'm thinking of using super glue or araldite to stick it back on with. Has anyone used either and does it last or is there a better alternative. PS I also need a cheap mk2 parking sensor.

I think I would check the fan in the heater is working. It sounds like the vapourised fuel is coming back up the inlet pipe. If the fan was running then the air flow should only be in one direction. As looks like smoke then I would guess that the glow plug is not completely dead. I've not looked at the fan connections but could it be possible that someone has serviced the heater and wired the fan the wrong way round? You could put your hand near the heater exhaust when it's starting up (ie when its still cold) to feel which way the air is flowing. Also while I'm here does anyone know where to get the bushes for the pump? Oh and also a parking sensor as well! and a motor for the headlamp!!.

Mine failed due to the usual --- the glow plug died. I thought that if the glow plug is dead then the control module doesn't even attempt to start the heater and therefore no fuel should be injected. My mpg seems to have fallen once it was repaired which makes sense. The mpg reading on the dash may not take into account the heater since the fuel line it has an independent fuel line. So, if your seeing an improvement on the dash display then this may only be due to the engine warming up faster. On the subject of the heater heating the engine as well, I assume this is correct. I have been trying to find some info on how the heater is plumbed in there are several configs on pg 10 of the DW5S technical description http://www.eberspacher.com/files/pdfs/wate...s_technical.pdf Does any know which one we have ? (on a mk2).

When I fixed the Aux heater I noticed a drop in mpg so it could be down to the cold. Most of my journeys are to work and back at 15 mins each. The heater is still running at the end and so for most of my miles the heater is always on and at full power for most of the journey. The fuel consumption of the heater is approx 0.6 liter / hour so for me estimate 0.3 liter per day. I'm in Austria at the moment so the outside temp is around -3 deg C. I drive 15 miles a day (60 mph autobahn) at around 36 mpg (from display) giving a fuel consumption of 1.875 liters. So for me the heater is taking approx 14% of fuel. If I work this back to a full tank of 70 liters this gives 480 miles per tank. On long journeys across Europe at 70-75mph I can get around 600. Also I think winter diesel has something added to stop it freezing during the winter. I have heard that this additive can reduce mpg by about 5 mpg.

Has anyone got any pictures yet? I would like to see a photo of the bushes alongside a ruler to get the correct dimensions. My motor is starting to packup. Also, what's the typical cost from a breakers yard for a spare?

If I push the connector towards the back of the engine bay the noise goes from a purring sound to a high speed whirring sound. If I pull it towards the front it slows down and even stops. Is this a classic sign of a pump on its way out?? The aux heating is not cutting out so the water must still be flowing around enough.

Mine was doing this also and would run on until the battery was flat. The cause was the relay block that control the fans, one of them was sticking. On the mk2 this is the box under the main fuses in the engine bay near the battery. It has cylindrical connectors going into it with heavy duty cables. The box switches the fans on either in parrallel with 12V across each (full power) or in series with 6V (low power). In either case both fans should be on. If only one fan is running as with mine then it's probably a sticking relay in this box. I just opened up the box and cleaned up the relay contacts and have had no problems since.

Have a look. Its just in front of the rear wheel on the passenger side. I think it is only used on the diesels as it seems that they can't maintain engine temperature when under no load (full cylinder of cold air on every induction unlike a petrol which has the throttle valve).

Have you checked round the back of the wiper arm on the passenger side. Mine was not visible (Galaxy Mk2) and could only be found be feeling around. On mine it's a small metal can with a blue connector.

Are you sure tihs is smoke and not steam. I always thought white 'smoke' was really steam (usually from water in the exhaust). If the metering pump was over-dosing would you not expect black smoke from incomplete combustion. Also, have you checked your coolant level. It could be possible that there is a leak of coolant into the combustion chamber. Neil BTW. I recently had to replace the glow plug and fired up fine with no smoke (after also cleaning the contacts on the pump).

Having a look under the bonnet there are coolant pipes going everywhere with T junctions etc. In case I need to diagnose any problems later is there a diagram anywhere which shows how the coolant circuit is connected up including the boost heater. The TIS does not seem to have one, or I can't find it. Neil

These are the leads that sell for around

I'm getting a high pitch tone from the rear parking speaker and the parking sensor switch is flashing. The front is OK and the rear is intermittent in that the high pitch tone is interupted by the normal tone. I bought the galaxy used and did not get the handbook. This only started to happen after a long motorway journey where the rear bumper was covered in dirt. For a few days things went back to normal but now it is starting to play up again. Can someone tell me what the high pitch tone means. Neil

Does anyone know if the cheap vag com usb interfaces found on ebay plus shareware vag are enough to read and reset the error codes

Does any know if the cheap VAG COM / OBDII connectors on ebay plus shareware VAG COM is enough to diagnose and reset the booster/aux heater on a 2001 mk2 TDI. Mine does not start up so I