swanny1970

Hi All Just wondering if anyone could offer me a little help please. My Gal. has developed an awful squealing sound, resembling that of a flock of budgies under the bonnet! I believe it to be the fan belt tensioner, but am having problems removing it. Am pretty sure that it is just one bolt in the middle of the tensioner, which is allen key driven, but was wondering if anyone knows the correct size key to use? Also, has anyone else had any problems with this and did renewing the tensioner solve the squeal? I have replaced the belt and the tensioner wheel, still to be squealing away! Thanks in advance Peter

Hi All Took the car for a diagnostic yesterday to a guy I know. He ran a check to see if any fault codes came up, one did PO132 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 1). He cleared the ECU and told me to drive the car for several miles and bring it back. Took the Gal back today and another diagnostic was done. PO132 came up again along with PO135 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1). The mechanic told me it could be fried wires, relay etc, but just wondering what I should be looking for and where the relays and wires would be? Done a quick google and found a post on another site regarding the PO135 code. It stated that a leak at the inlet manifold could cause this fault code? Just wondering if that is true, as had the gasket replaced on this not long prior to this problem starting. Could either of these fault codes cause the engine to "hunt" at idle? Mechanic also told me that there seems to be a restriction and thinks it could be the Cat. Again, could these fault codes mimic a restriction? Sorry for all the questions, hoping I will be able to see a light soon at the end of a very long, dark tunnel! Kind regards Peter

Hi Stevoo Thanks for the reply. I am not sure if there is a problem that would cause the EML to come on, but, both the EML and the Air Bag Light should illuminate for approx 5 seconds on turning the ingition on and neither do. Had a diagnostic done a while ago, which came back no faults. Spoke to an auto electrician today, who told me to do the torch test. Just wondering why both lights do not come on at start up when they are supposed to? I know that the problems that I am getting with the car could cause the EML to illuminate and I am getting another diagnostic done, but just wondered what could cause them not to light up? Just a thought - does my car have an EML and Air Bag Light! You mentioned an OBD2 reader - are these the same as the ones for sale on ebay? Any specific one needed for my gal? Info greatly appreciated :P Kind regards Peter

Hi All Still trying to get to the bottom of my juddering and hesitation problems, but I was given advice yesterday from a mechanic at Fords that is now baffling me. I told him of my problems with the juddering etc and he asked if the Engine Management Light came on. I told him no and he advised me to check that the bulb had not been removed or blown before trying a different route. The Engine Management Light and the Air Bag Light that should illumimate on my instrument panel for approximately 5 seconds on start up, basically don't lol I have never noticed this before, so couldn't say if they have ever come on in the 18 months that I have owned the car. I have had the clocks out and found a bulb that looked a little iffy (black and smoky looking towards the top). I bought a new bulb, fitted it, still no light. Phoned an auto electrician who told me to remove the bulbs one by one and shine a torch through. Both lights mentioned did not light up with this test. My question is this. What could cause the failure of both of these lights to not illuminate? Could something have been disconnected to mask a problem prior to me purchasing the car? Any help that you can give me on this would be greatly appreciated. Kind regards Peter

Hi All OK. Still having the issues with lack of power, juddering when driving and rough idle. The rough idle corrects itself at some point when I am sitting at lights with the engine shaking violently, the rev counter jumping a little and then the car drives semi-ok with a judder and hesitation here and there. Tried loads of different things. Checked all hoses, found some split or corroded and replaced them, no change. Changed MAF, coils, HT Leads, sparks etc, no change. Thought maybe the thermostat was sticking and the water wasn't circulating around as it should, so took off the thermostat housing....NOTHING THERE! Got out my trusty Haynes manual and read that Gals up to 98 have a thermostat in said housing, but, 2.3 Gals from 98 onwards, mine falling into this catagory as it is a late 98, have a thermostat in a housing acting as a "T-Piece" fitted into the radiator top hose. My question is this : Should there be a thermo in the housing as well as the one on the radiator top hose? I phone Fords and they didn't seem to have a clue! Hope someone can help with this as it has totally baffled me. If the thermo housing is there on the left side of the cylinder head, then I would assume that there should be a thermo within it ... but, what is this other thermo on the top hose? Can this top hose thermo be removed and tested to see if it is faulty? Haynes states that if faulty, the complete assembly should be renewed. Thanks in advance for your replies Kind regards Peter

Ah, problem solved! It wasn't pieces of metal, it was hardened gasket that had fell into the sump! Must have been from the previous owner! Thanks anyways!! regards, Peter

Hi All Just a quickie as I am knee deep in oil and slime at the moment! Just took the oil sump off my gal to check the pick up and found several fragments of broken metal in the sump itself? Just wondering what this could be off? The pick up is as clear as anything. The car has been making a grating/clunking noise for a while now, which has gradually worsened. Thought it was the water pump on the way out, but no leaks from that. Thought it could be the oil pick up clogged up, hence the checks today. Any help would be greatly appreciated as to where these metal fragments could have came from! Thanks in advance Kind regards Peter

Thanks for the info, think I will take it round to the local garage for them to have a quick look. It sounds as if something is struggling to turn when the engine is cold and as it is coming from the area that the water pump is, thought it may have been that. Could it be that the bearings have gone inside or would I get a leak if that had happened. I don't know about a lifetime guarantee sorry, bought mine pre-owned. Thanks again Kind regards, Peter

Hi All Just a question about the water pump if anyone can help please. When I start the car up, there is a knocking/grinding/whirring noise coming from the area that the water pump is in. Now, I have no leak, but after about two or three minutes of driving, the car will hesitate, stumble and after about 40 seconds it 90% corrects itself. I was wondering if the thermostat could be not opening when it should and this stumbling of the engine is because water is not circulating as needed? Once it has more or less corrected itself, the car drives without a noise for the majority of time. Any help would be greatly appreciated please. Thanks in advance, Kind regards Peter

Hi All Been having an ongoing problem for several months now with loss of power, kangarooing etc. Tried so many different things to resolve the problem, new coils, HT Leads, plugs, gaskets, checked hoses etc and all to no avail. Went to the scrap yard the other day and was amazed to see a Ford Scorpio, with exactly the same engine as mine. Needless to say, I have grabbed a load of parts as they are so hard to find. Got the MAF from the car as it had exactly the same part number as mine. Came home, tried it and the car ran a little better, but still has this problem where after about a minute of driving, the engine really struggles and then it is as if something has 'kicked in' and the car drives brilliantly, that is, until the ignition is switched off whereby it all starts again! I decided to attack the MAF with several screwdrivers to try and get the top off! Eventually managed it, cleaned it up, put it back on my car and WHOOOMPH! Loads of power, no pulling back, nothing making the engine stumble as it usually does. Now, as I was patting myself on the back, I tried braking, whilst in gear and the engine starts to stumble, as if it wants to stall, but not cut out. However, if the engine is in neutral when braking, this doesn't happen?? Could this be gearbox oil, lack of I mean? If not, any help would be greatly appreciated as always. Kind regards, Peter

Hi Stevoo, I live in Liverpool mate. Just recently replaced the coil packs with new ones myself and the car has loads more power, just this irritating problem. What wiring were you talking about that you had re done? Hopefully getting nearer to getting to the bottom of this, tearing my hair out with it! Kind regards, Peter

Hi Johnny Thanks for the reply. I have changed the fuel filter not that long ago and the problem was there before the new one was fitted, so think that should be ok. Had a look at the fuel lines yesterday and none seem to be folded or restricted in any way. I have recently changed the coil packs, HT Leads and Sparks and am running out of options! Was wondering if anyone could tell me if there is a relay that is related to the fuel that maybe could be causing this problem? As I said, once the engine bounces and corrects itself, it runs as sweet as a nut until the ignition is turned off. So it is pointing towards something that only needs to be connected or fired up once after the ignition is switched on. Thanks for your help, keep it coming please!!!! Regards, Peter

Hi All Got a problem that I initially thought was connected with wiring, but now thinking maybe not!! OK, car starts fine, drives brilliantly for about 2 minutes, then the engine starts stumbling and and boucing, quite horrifically! If I put my foot down on the accelelerator, it will over ride the problem temporarily, but it will start bouncing again within minutes. I originally pulled the car over, left it ticking over on idle and wiggled a load of wires by the injectors. After about a minute, the engine would rev up slightly and purr like a kitten. The Gal would continue to drive perfectly until I turned off the ignition, turned it on again and the problems would start all over. I have had a good look at the wires and can't see any splits or breaks, but have discovered another temporary fix to my problem. After the 2 minutes of driving when the bouncing starts, if I pull over and let the engine tick on idle, after about a minute, the engine revs up slightly and corrects itself without me opening the bonnet. Now, I was thinking that me wiggling the wires was correcting this, but obvisouly not. Wondering if the engine is shaking that violently that the wires are wiggling themselves! Definitely feels like a fuel issue, but what could be causing this? It is obviously something that only needs to be "fired up" once after the ignition is turned on, as after the initial bouncing, once it has corrected itself, the car drives like new. Could it be an air lock in the fuel line and is there a way of checking? Thanks in advance Regards, Peter

Hi Gregers Just recently serviced my 2.3 petrol - items you will need are : Oil, Oil Filter, Fuel Filter, Air Filter, Glow Plugs - not sure if diesels have pollen filters, but I changed this on mine at service. Plus, have you had the timing belt/chain checked? Always best to check this, as I know from experience it is a lot more problematic once it goes lol Think that is it :lol: Kind regards Peter

Hi All Right, had loads of help with the problems I posted about compression - turned out to be coils and not compression related! The car is about 95% better now, running with so much more power, but, the odd thing is this. Start the car, drives great for about a minute, then starts to hesitate, not like before, but still a definite hesitation. At first, I accelerated a little more to over ride it, but the jolt is similar to that of whiplash! So, the other day, I pulled over, left the car running, lifted the bonnet and tried the very specialised and technical approach of push this and wiggle that!! All of a sudden, after wiggling some wires above the injectors, the engine revved slightly and sounded much sweeter. Got back in the car and it drove like a brand new car, not one hesitation. Thought I had fixed it, until I switched the car off, went shopping with the missus, got back in and a minute later, hesitation again. Did a bit more wiggling, again with the engine on and same thing, car drove great. Now, wiggling these wires temporarily fixes the problem until the ignition is switched off and on again. You can hear the engine rev slightly when messing with the wires. I have found a wire, which is housed in the black casing above the injectors and seems to lead to the injectors, that has an insulating block in the middle with two wires going in and one coming out. This has a break in the block as I can feel it. Only problem is, sometimes, grabbing a bunch of wires and wiggling them will solve the problem too. I am thinking it may be the connector block on the lead going to the injector, but can this connector be repaced? I don't want to start disconnecting things, to find I have to buy a really expensive part to fix it :lol: Just wondered if anyone had experienced anything similar and again any help and advice is greatly appreciated. Kind regards Peter

Hi All Sorry for the late reply, PC been in for repair (seems everything is breaking down all at once!) Just an update, replaced the coils, HT leads and spark plugs, so much more power now, about 95% better, although still a slight hesitation - but I will start a new thread about that one as it relates to wiring!! On closer examination of the coils, I found two small splits where the connector fits onto the body of the coil. Just wanted to thank everyone for all their help and advice, wouldn't know what to do without this forum!! Kind regards, Peter

Hi Beyond Help I was with the mechanic at the time, but couldn't clearly see what he was doing in the engine, so that is a definite possiblity. The thought of a con crossed mine and my wifes mind yesterday too after I had done the compression test myself, especially as the mechanic said "You have no compression in 3 and 4, it's probably head gasket, I would sell the car mate" and was pretty keen trying to convince me to sell the car - maybe he was wanting to make me an offer!! Hopefully getting the coils today to try, so will let you know. Thanks again for the tip and advice, learning so much from the advice from this forum, hopefully will be able to help others out too. Kind regards Peter

Hi All and a Happy New Year :P Right, firstly, thanks to Bigjeeze who suggested getting another compression test done. I bought one from Halfords yesterday, took all the plugs out, removed fuel pump fuse, screwed the compression tester into each chamber and took note of the readings. Bearing in mind when the mechanic did this, 1 and 2 were fine, 3 had no compression and 4 had a tiny amount - all 4 of them had full compression when I did it. Did what it said in the Haynes manual to a tee, cranked the engine for several seconds to get an accurate reading, but it only took 2 and a half cranks to get to full compression. Redid the test, just to be sure and got full compression for a second time. Baffled as to why the mechanics one was different? Am now suspecting that the head gasket is not the problem (hopefully!) Was about to dive right into the head, so again, huge thanks to Bigjeeze for putting me on the right track. With there being full compression in all 4 cylinders, am I right in thinking that it will not be the head, pistons or valves? Possibly thinking along the lines of air intake leak or maybe faulty coil pack? Symptoms are : Intermittent hesitation on acceleration Intermittent kangarooing Intermittent rough idle If I keep the car at around 2000 rpm, quite often it will run like a brand new car, but on occasion, it will produce the above symptoms. Am thinking of starting from scratch again - renewing sparks (platinum ones) and HT Leads. A mate of mine who owns a motor factors is ordering me some new coil packs which I can return if it proves to not be them (which is really helpful!). Going to also check the inlet manifold gaskets and the manifold itself for a crack. Any pointers that you guys can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to everyone who has replied, really do appreciate all your help and input. Kind regards, Peter

Hi Beyond Help and All You mentioned in your post about getting the job done ASAP otherwise the head could possibly need skimming - is there a way to tell if I will need to get this skimmed or not? Definitately sounds like head gasket problem, getting bad running and intermittent rough idle along with the compression problems in 3 and 4. Thanks in advance. Kind regards, Peter

Hi and Merry Christmas :rolleyes: Thanks very much for the replies and advice Bigjeeze and Pud, it was extremely helpful. From what you have both written it really sounds like it is going to be head gasket, but will check everything else whilst the head is off. Not getting any grey smoke from the exhaust, so that is a good sign!! Would it be ok if I need any more help if I PM you guys? Going to be doing this job myself with a friend (who has done this many times) so feeling pretty confident about doing it. Really appreciate the help, this forum is a life saver!! Merry Christmas and all the best for a prosperous New Year Kind Regards Peter

Hi All Been having a problem with intermittent loss of power issues for the past couple of months. I have posted a few topics on here and had great advice. It has been gradually worsening over the past 2 weeks and so I rang a mechanic who offered an hour of his time and a diagnostic test for

Hi All Just wondering if anyone knows of any way to check if a coil pack is faulty? I know that misfiring is a sign, but are there any others? Driving at 70mph doesn't seem to affect the perfomance as bad as when I am driving around town at 30-40 mph. Also get a strong smell of petrol every now and again. Thanks in advance, Kind regards Peter

Hi Was just wondering if the speed sensor can cause power loss intermittently? I have had problems with power loss for the past couple of months now, fixed it to a degree when I replaced a split crankcase ventilation elbow, but it has come back again with a vengeance!! Checked all air hoses, sparks plugs, coil pack, fuel pressure, throttle position sensor (replaced) and all seem fine. Had a diagnostic done and came back with no error codes. However, the car idles great now, the problems only arise when I am actually driving and the diagnostic was done at idle. Seems like I have to knock it down a gear to bypass the power loss and kangarooing. When driving around town when the power loss occurs, if I floor the accelerator, it seems to kick in a surge of power. The problem doesn't seem as bad when I am driving at 70 on the motorway. Any help would be great on this. Regards Peter

Hi Wizza Had exactly the same problem myself a while ago. I traced mine back to the wiring in the boot. At the top right hand side of the boot lid there is a rubber gator. I pulled this off carefully to inspect the wiring and found a black broken wire. Hoping for the best, connected them back up with a connector block, taped them up securely and hey presto, problem solved. Just a thought mate, could be the same thing that is causing yours. Hope this helps, Regards, Peter

Just replaced my drop link and the knocking I had has gone.