machia

Hi Butch, If you have got down to the second set of relays then there are only two rows. At the top are the maxi fuses. The layout of the relays should be as follows: Top Row: R25 (Empty) - R26 (100) - R27 (114) Bottom Row: R20 (Empty) - R21 (109) - R22 (Empty) - R23 (100) - R24 (103) You are talking of replacing Relay 103 in position R24 (bottom right hand corner). This is not the all singing all dancing relay subject to failure. It might sort your problem, but it costs about

I presume you have unclipped the fuse frame, raised it out of it's securing slots and lowered it face down to reveal the first layer of relays. You should now have the fusebox frame face down in front of you like a tray. Running along the right-hand side of the back of the fusebox and the front of the first relay tray should be the thick, black, braided wiring loom connecting to the fusebox. This is secured by two plastic ties top and bottom which will need to be cut in order to free the wiring loom and enable the first relay frame to be unclipped. Once you have cut the ties, pull the wiring loom away from the first relay frame a little. On each side of the first relay frame towards the top, there is a small black plastic tongue protruding from a narrow slot. By moving these outwards and at the same time pulling the top of the first relay frame, it unclips. After unclipping the top, lift the first relay frame upwards. You may need to push in the plastic legs at the bottom of the first relay frame at the same time. Once it is free of the back of the fusebox, rotate if clockwise and tilt it upwards and backwards out of the way. You should now see the second relay frame in all its glory! I did a sixty mile round trip in my car today in all conditions including motorway and it's driving better than ever. It pulls like a train without hesitation.

I did some more research on the net and it seems that Relay 109 is notorious for failing. It's not robust enough for the work it does. The black 109 has been replaced by the grey 109 which has better joints and bigger contacts. The advice seems to be to change the black 109 even if it hasn't failed yet because it's a matter of time until it does. The glow plug light will not come on without the 109 and so the car will not start without it working. I changed mine this morning (

My old warhorse 1.9 TDI 1999 (110 - AFN?) has just sufferred a stall while driving and refusal to start. The starter motor turned very well but it wouldn't catch. This was accompanied by the glow plug light not illuminating. When it did eventually light, the car started straight away. I was advised to change the glow plug relay R24 Numbered 103. I changed the relay but on a test run after about 3 miles, it stalled again while moving and this time I tapped the fuse box cover, the glow plug light came on for a second and the engine fired again. A few hundred yards further on and it stallled again while moving and again I hit the fuse box cover more forcibly and the glow plug light came on for a second and the engine picked up again and it was fine for the rest of the journey of about 8 miles. I inspected the relays again to make sure they were all seated correctly and the only one that seemed loose was relay 21 numbered 109 and with it removed, the glow plug light did not come on when the ignition key was turned. I'm wondering if this 109 relay is faulty and responsible for the engine cutting out even though according to my owner's guide, R21 is for the wiper motor circuit!

@sepulchrave Thanks for your explanation. I'm going to sound like I'm supporting this system, which I am not. I'm just as curious and sceptical as everyone else. The premise is not that water is injected but gas (hydrogen and oxygen) derived from electrolysis of water. Could injecting small quantities of highly flammable gas make a difference to performance?

I'm not saying it works because I don't know, but isn't the point being made that the internal combustion engine is not 100% efficient at converting fuel to power and that the modification enables recovery of some of the lost potential of the fuel already being used.

@adrianf Many thanks for your help. I dismantled the air box today and found one of the two spigots on the bottom had snapped off allowing the air box to move about and I presume vibrate. I managed to secure it and all seems back to normal now. machia

I wonder if anybody can help diagnose the problem with my 1.9Tdi 110 Galaxy, "T" reg, 126,000 miles. About two months ago it started to make a noise similar to a blown exhaust, only the exhaust is fine. It has even passed its MOT but the engineer did make a comment that there is excessive noise from the Air Induction side of the engine. The car drives well and has been fully serviced at regular intervals and the drive and auxiliary belts have been changed at the recommended intervals i.e 60k and 120k. What could be accounting for the rasping exhaust type noise from the induction side of the engine? machia