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Ford Galaxy Owners Club

rayc

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About rayc

  • Birthday 06/21/1961

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  • Vehicle Type
    2001 galaxy 2.0 ghia 115 TD
  • Vehicle Model
    Ford
  • Region
    South East

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Deal, Kent

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  1. Hi Seatkid, I'm 90% sure it's a head gasket now. Took it out tonight and with a headwind the car started overheating within 5 miles. Heaters went cold and the header tank threw all it's coolant out. Drove back after topping up and under load the engine started to get warm. Had no heaters all the way home (even at normal temp) and then the temp stabilised, then ticking over crept up to 3/4 then under load back to middle! No reason or rhyme apart from gasket or as you say a crack. Have tried K seal and tried Unpart sealer. Neither have worked. I've put in on Ebay as suspect head gasket failure. See what it makes. If no good then I'll get it repaired and then sell it. Unfortunately I have to say I wont be buying another one. I know when they're good they're very good. I haven't had that pleasure. It's been a money pit and continues to be so.
  2. If it's the head it will go as is. I paid
  3. Still seems strange that it was fine over the winter months though
  4. Hi, yes it.s the 1.9. AUY engine (which from reading forums seems to be the root of all problems). It was a one owner company car which I bought from Somerset. I didn't change the Rad Cap. I'll order one today and try that. My EGR was changed (funnily enough ir came from an auto) due to another issue with the car (the dreaded 1500 rpm - 1800 rpm stutter / turbo stall not over pressurising which I haven't cured yet either). I'll give it a go. Otherwise I'll sell it requiring a head. I have to admit. It's totally beaten me
  5. Hi guys, Can anyone advise me please. My galaxy suddenly overheated last year on the M20 with 7 people in. RAC recovered me home and sniffed the water and said head gasket fine. Car then went in and had new genuine water pump, cam belt and thermostat. Made no difference. I parked it for 3 months and then had another water pump fitted and cam belt. Car ran great all over the winter without any issues whatsoever. Aux water pump works and the aux heater was working a treat. Drove up and down the motorway fine. Today after leaving it 2 weeks. Drove 1/2 mile. Warning light on dash no water in header tank! Topped up 1.5 ltrs! Drove to Folkestone up the hill on the A20 and it started to overheat! Left it all day. Drove my mates 06 plate 730D for the day B) Drove it home. Didn't overheat but the water system was chattering like a goosun when I got home! (Kettling). So, today I flushed the rad. However, when I started the water in the header was frothy but I assume due to air bleed etc. My question is. Hot top hose, cold bottom hose. Does the rad flow bottom up or top down? Can someone confirm the fitment of the thermostat is with the body in the block of the engine (I think they can only go one way). Left it running for nearly an hour. No overheating but also the bottom hose wasn't hot to the touch. The car has 170k miles but full service history. It's the end of a long line of issues and I've put in on Ebay to sell. Hence why this problem has reared it's head again! If the concensus is head (But why run all winter without issue) I'll remove from Ebay. I have replaced the water pump twice and the thermostat. I cant think what else it can be unless it was a blocked rad (which has now been cleaned out with caustic solution. Would appreciate some help if you dont mind. I've spent a small fortune on the car and have truly had enough now. They are brilliant when they work but a nightmare when they go wriong. My local Ford dealer is worse than useless too. Thanks for listening! :ph34r:
  6. Idle cotrol valve gummed up or sticking???
  7. Contact the lease company and they will send you the schedule in the form of a print out. Hope you get it sorted!
  8. Well the misfire continues (I now believe it to be a boost issue). I have replaced MAF, TMAP, Throttle, Boost Valve, No codes showing. Still got severe hesitation at 1800 rpm (sometimes in 2nd it stops and then goes like a rocket until you change gear). Does anyone know of a dealer / individual with vagcom in SE Kent or even Kent? This will be the last chance otherwise the car is going. It's becoming a right money pit now and I have read just about every post here without any success. I have checked movement of the vanes and the actuator moves a good 10 mm plus when started, The problem is still when putting under load and there is nothing there. It's not a fuelling issue (I think) but possibly not enough air. (Hence needing vag com) I'm happy to pay for time. Cheers Ray
  9. Yes your right. I forgot to mention. That has all been checked and is ok as well. Admittedly this normally throws a misfire code as well from what I've read. Maybe it's an unfound air leak. Just need to find where though!
  10. The saga continues! Have now changed. MAF 4 times. Map twice. Throttle pedal. No codes. Ford today say they reckone is an air leak from intercooler ( I cant find one). This drop in pressure due to leak is causing the problem. I replied the MAP last week was causing overboost with the same supposed leak and I had the same problem. Was then suggested I take it to VW as they have better testing equipment. Can anyone recomend a VW speacialist in the Dover (ish) area? The misfire is under load when you push the pedal past 1/4 way down. Can only do 40 mph up hill in 3rd with mpg showing 9! When driving on the flat it's fine as you let your foot up on the throttle. Pulls like a train but then misses when you touch the accelerator. Ticks over fine. Can only rev to 4200 rpm stationary. Feels like a vacuum pipe is off or leaking but all have been checked and ok? Also I thought fuelling. Changed filter (even though it was new) and it's still the same! Done everything as per other posts so I can only now take to VW. Boost valve appears to be working ok as ford says it's doing as it should. As there are no error codes they (and I) am completely stumped. Hope someone can assist otherwise I can see me parting company with it which would be a crying shame. Cheers Ray
  11. I work in France and haven't used beam benders for years (Always carry a set though). As I also work in the docks at dover I see all the gubbins being handed out stating that you would be contravening type approval etc and liable to having a fine and the car seizes etc etc etc. All I ever do is lower the headlights (for those who have the electric lowering). The angled beam then is on the ground and not in the air dazzling people. If I ever got stopped (Never in 10 yrs including living there for 5) I would say. Oh somebody must have pinched them or they've fallen off but I have some spare ones here! :rolleyes: There are other items you must definately carry. such as 1st aid, reflective yellow jackets, fire extinguisher and triangle. These are safety items and if you break down the fine is heavy if not used. Equally if you are approached at the scene of an accident for a first aid kit or extinguisher and dont have them the fine is very heavy. If these are used by an official you get a chitty for a replacement foc.
  12. I think the glow plugs are instant on these (mine are). I think your starting problem is something other than glowplugs mate. Maybe you have a fuelling problem (fuel filter?) Or the MAF. Get some carb cleaner and squirt (from a distance of a couple of inches) the sensor wire as I read they can get an oily film on them and give false readings. If you have the funny torque screws you can by them from halfords and the like. Mine are normal cross head screws possibly where it was changed before. if necessary undo the spring clip that holds the inlet pipe on. Undo the four screws that hold the air cleaner top on and remove. squirt through the tube with an extension piece on the aerosol. Do the same with the MAP sensor on the pipe from the intercooler. DO NOT start the engine with either disconnected as it will log an error code
  13. Update. Just got car back. Synopsis. Checked Turbo operation. All OK Checked wiring - All ok Swapped map sensor from the new euro car part sensor I put in yesterday. Boost went from 1.4 - 2 bar (Correct) Cleaned the new Map and it's 85% but not perfect. Advise new genuine map. Also still have misfire but much less. They say it's almost certainly MaF sensor. Told the I have replaced twice with GSF (Bosch) and they say that these are generic not specifically set up for the car. Said to replace and they are sure the misfire will disappear! Drove home. Still no real acceleration but it's 100% better than it was. So start saving my pennies! it seems
  14. Oh yes. The carshop. I visit regularly just to have a peep. I dont think they're very cheap anymore to be honest
  15. Just noticed your in Northamptonshire. We travel to Billing regularly as we have a mobile there! Just to change subject quickly to stop me ripping my hair out! :angry2:
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