walkthewalk

After a few weeks the idling problem went.. presumably because the ECU had readjusted.

I will look into doing this. Any idea if this type of tool is good at getting the door trim off? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CAR-DOOR-BODY-REPAIR...6QQcmdZViewItem Just to confirm, operation from the door switch is perfect. Dash switch and C/L is incorrect. My ideal solution would be there is a way to change the wiring to correct the operation. Rather than have to obtain another unit, remove the current unit, courier it back to the breakers and get a refund, etc. This is the second replacement part so far, first one was completely duff. Any idea where I could obtain a wiring diagram from?

Ok. So are you thinking I've actually been sent the part for a Mk2?

I have just had the rear o/s window regulator and motor replaced on my 96 V6. The replacement part was sourced from a breaker from another mk1 gal, but I am unsure of the year and model. The window works correctly from the door switch. However, the operation direction is in reverse from the dashboard switch. I can put up with that, but

Thanks for the replies. @sepulchrave: That's good to know. @big_kev: The battery did look well weathered. I'm sure it was at least 5 years old. I don't know how many years they should last for?

Recently I had to jump start my 96 V6 Galaxy GLX twice in couple of days. I decided the best course of action was to replace the battery. I went to Halfords (not my first choice but it was a Sunday) to get a new battery and their little flip-book told me I needed a 065 battery, rated 500AEN/CC and 60Ah. When I arrived home and popped Gal's bonnet I noticed the old battery was a 096 (with +30% of a standard battery) rated 720AEN/CC and 80Ah. I decided to swap the batteries anyway. Later on I took the car out for a drive. I noticed it idling roughly, whereas it had been smooth prior to the battery change. If I leave the car idling, the RPM drops very low and it either just about keeps running or stalls. Weirdly, when the air-con is on the car idles smoothly, as you would expect at just under 1000 RPM. Since then I spoke to a (not particularly helpful) Ford dealer who said I need a 760AEN/CC battery. I have also spoken to a couple of other motor factors who have said I need a 075 (550AEN/CC and 59Ah) or 069 (570AEN/CC and 72Ah). Could the lower rated battery be causing my idling problems? Or may it be that the ECU needs to be reset? Will the lower rated battery cause me any other problems? Does anyone know the proper battery rating?

I took off the plastic steering column cover to have a nose around. It turned out the problem was where the wiring loom/ignition switch clips into the bottom of the ignition barrel. It's had come loose and kind of moved in and out when you turned the key caused the key to not always turn the switch. I managed to secure it with some tape.

I've been having an intermittent problem with my 96/P V6 Gal. I unlock the car with the infrared remote. I turn the key to position 1, hear the click and the steering is unlocked fine. Then when turning to position 2 none of the instrument LED's come on. Obviously it won't start. Other electrics (central locking, mileage display, interior light) are working. Both times I've come back to the car later and it's been fine for another couple of days. I've tried the spare key in case it's a transponder problem. Any help greatly appreciated.