ed austin

I think I fixed it! I thought I'd put down my diagnostic procedure - maybe it will help others: 1) Thought it was an immobaliser fault, but in ignition, the LED on the door glowed steadily for 3-4 seconds then switched off, indicating that the immobaliser was not stopping the engine starting 2) Many suggested it was something to do with the fuel pump. I checked the diaghram in the fuel pressure regulator by removing one of the vacuum hoses and smelling and looking for fuel. nothing. I finally removed the possibility of a fuel pump problem when the problem progressed and the engine started just cutting out at idle during normal use, rather than failing to start. The engine cut out cleanly and immediately, which seemed to suggest I did not have a fuel problem. To check this, I removed the fuel pump fuse (F18) while the car was running, and rather than die immediately, it coughed for about 20 seconds, desparately sucking fuel from the tank. Hence I convinced myself it wasn't a fuel problem. 3) In desparation I took the car to hendies, who said it was a camshaft position sensor problem after putting on their diagnostic. I changed the camshaft position sensor - no difference. 4) I bought a OBDII lead from ebay and diagnosed the engine myself with Vag-com. I first cleared all the previous errors, then ran the car until it failed, and diagnosed again. The only error was intermittent crankshaft position sensor, wich makes sense for the problem I'm having 5) Installed a new crankshaft position sensor, and with luck, it now works!! Thanks to everyone for all your help!!

Success! (kind of). I installed the same software and driver on a different laptop (toshiba), and it works fine! I can't for the life of me get it to work on my Dell Latitude D610. I suspect it's a USB current drain issue. Thanks to all for your help. Now I just need to actually fix my car...

thanks. I don't think I've tried starting Vag-com *after* plugging in to the car. Do you think that could make much difference? I had the idea it might be something to do the firewall on my laptop. I'll try some experiments when I get a chance this evening. Does anyone think this might be the problem? thanks Ed

Thanks for all these replies. I've installed a windows serial port emulator for the lead from http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm, the filename was CDM 2.02.04 WHQL Certified.zip. I used this because the drivers that came with lead seemed to be for win98 or 2000, and my laptop runs winxp. I have the virtual com port set to com4. I think the driver part is working. In vag-com 311.2, when I select 'test' from 'options' with the lead connected, but not plugged into the car, it says, 'com port status : OK, 'Interface status : 3 not found or not ready'. When I plug the lead into the car and press test again, it says 'interface status : 0 ready'. So it knows it's plugged into the car!! When I press the OBD-II button vag-com says that the car is not OBD-II compatible. I will try to interrogate the ABS controller when I get a chance, to see if I can read anything using this setup! Is there a specific Ford OBD reader I can run on my laptop using this lead? Thanks again for all your posts. Ed

Hi all, I'm having a problem with my 97 2.8v6 galaxy intermittently not starting, and now just dieing. I've started a thread in the traniee member section on this. All help very gratefully received!! I have bought a OBD2 KKL KWP-2000 lead from ebay, to help diagnose the problem. However, I can't seem to connect to the car using vag-com. Have I bought the wrong lead? Which lead do I need to connect to this car? I think the virtual com port is setup correctly in windows. Sorry if this has been dealt with before - I did search!! Thanks for your help Ed

hiya and thanks, but nope no other keys anywhere near. The problem has progressed. Today on my way home, whilst I was stopped in traffic, the engine just died. After about 5 mins of cranking and head scratching and swearing it suddenly started again, then ran fine. It must be some sensor gone wrong - but surely this would show up on Ford's diagnostic equipment? In an attempt to solve the problem, I have purcahsed an OBD lead from ebay, an OBD2 KKL KWP-2000, but can't make it work with my car, a 97 Ford Galaxy 2.8 v6. Should it? thanks all for your help so far!! ed

Thanks yeah I thought it might be an alarm fault. I've tried different keys, and locking and unlocking the door, no difference. The LED on the door always comes on constantly for 3 seconds then switches off, which I believe indicates that the immobaliser is OK. Is it possible that the LED has this behaviour and yet there's still a problem with the immobaliser? I also thought it might be vapour lock - would this ring any bells with anyone? The fuel pressure regulator seems to be fine (no fuel in vacuum lines). I'm going to change the fuel filter, but I don't think this is the problem. I've taken it to Hendy's and they don't know what's wrong with it either. They couldn't replicate the fault. Please help anyone!! This is driving me crazy!!

I know this was from a while ago, but I am having similar starting problems with my V6 R reg Galaxy. The problem is intermittent but getting worse. When it's hot, sometimes it just won't start no matter how long I crank the start motor for! Can anyone tell me if the startup sequence given by sloper above applies to the V6? Should I be waiting for the fuel pump to turn off while the key is in position 2 as an indication that everything is OK with the PCM? Also my car won't start at all in failure condition. Does that mean the problem has nothing to do with the imobaliser? Does the imobaliser always allow the car to run for 3 secs? thanks for your help ed

thanks for this. I've seen many posts about this, but they seem to say that the v6 doesn't have a relay 30. Is that correct?

Hi all, This is my first post. This is an excellent forum - I wish I had found it earlier! I've searched but can't find an answer to my problem. Occasionally, but now more frequently (currently once every couple of days), my 97 v6 galaxy ghia auto won't start. I turn the key, the starter motor runs, (and so does another small motor - fuel pump?) but it won't catch. I've not found a consistent way to get it out of the failure condition, though usually after about 10 mins I will turn the key and it will start as if nothing's wrong. It seems to happen more when the engine is warm. Does this sound like an immobaliser problem? Would the starter motor run at all if the immobaliser was engaged? If so can I bypass it somehow? I've tried removing and re-inserting the key, and using the red key. I've also had a look at the controller under the passanger seat, and this is totally dry and free of any corrosion. I've not been able to assertain if there is a spark during failure, because I'm always away from my tools!! I'd very much appreciate any help or advice. Thanks Ed