johnswlondon

no probs,i thought it was interesting and wanted to share it,after all this site is all about technical info and development of systems. time to move on i guess. bye folks

ok first the short answer then the long answer the short answer is that a h cooke,later warden of new college (my old warden),worked for what is now the m o d in london and helped in radar equipment for use in bombing raids during ww2.so `on my radar` is a term we can thank him for,although magnetron would be a better term. I have replaced the next bit with the link to the page he copied from.mumof4 http://www.vectorsite.net/ttwiz_03.html

when you say the means of wealth creation are owned by a few,i assume you mean large companies. large companies tend to be owned by institutional investor shareholders who seek to maximise profits for their members,such as pension fund members,life assurance schemes,etc.so as often as not these stakeholders are the likes of you and me,not multi millionaires.so if these large companies do badly we all do badly.wanting to close down profitable companies can only make sense in a victorian society where there are `wealthy mill owners` or `country squires`. we all live in a quasi corporate state form which we all benefit,not just a few

the misfire is caused by water entering the combustion chambers

misfire and losing water sounds like the head gasket.the head will need skimming and a new head gasket,probably 350-400 pounds

when you press the brake pedal it puts pressure on the caliper piston to press th pads against the disk,think of it as an on /off switch.if the brake fluid is contaminated it may interfere with the correct operation of the pads,so bleeding the front of the car s brakes may help. also,it could be that the caliper pin(within the rubber bellows)is partially seized and needs greasing meaning the pads are not fully disengaging when the pedal is released.the bleeding and greasing should take about 2 hours or less

i have heard that going past high powered transmitters can wipe the memory from chips,such as mobile phone and police transmitting masts

i had a similar problem once with an old volvo. i know that the idle speed is electronically controlled,but on the fuel injected volvo there was a screw to raise the idle.engines contain a knock sensor which raises the idle speed to prevent damage to the engine and an anti stall valve for when the revs drop low. manually raising the idle speed by turning the screw on the throttle linkage should solve the problem because the engine will no longer be hunting for the correct revs,and it costs nothing to try

well now kevin,youre saying you have what we used to call a `flat spot` up to 2000rpm. i have never really spent a lot of time with fault codes. a fault with the maf unit would reduce the power output a lot,but sometimes something as simple as a bad tank of fuel can be responsible,the use of cheap oil can make the valves stick or a blocked or faulty fuel injector(redex sells an injector cleaner to mix with the fuel),so too a blocked air filter i suppose what im really saying is eliminate the obvious first

claire,is your speedo is reading km not miles?

i have experienced similar problems on other cars and it is usually a blown fuse.what happens is that when one of the fuses blows it causes malfunctions of other dash display items eg rev counter,lcd readout or even indicators.if not a fuse then a relay.sometimes fuses look ok but change them anyway

my sister had an engine fire while driving along the m2 a couple of years ago. the fire brigade put the fire out and the aa towed her into the services at about 2am in midwinter,it was about minus 4 that night. she only had roadside assistance not relay so the aa man....left her and the car at the services on the m2. i had to drive round the m25 /m2 to rescue her and tow the car back. i think it is just common decency not to leave a lady at a motorway service station in the middle of the night with a car which could never run again(the fire brigades words). so before you are too quick to join the aa,think of this tale....when you see the adverts saying ...its cheaper than you think to join the aa...just 39 pounds. yes,if you like your family stranded in midwinter at the motorway services. if someone reading this works for the aa...great work

sounds like a transponder fault-have you tried using a different key,or seeing if the problem occurs between locking/unlocking car,suggesting an alarm fault

linkage problem i think,quite cheap to fix.

in general terms,the cooler the air surrounding the engine the better the fuel economy and performance of the engine.this is because a cold (air)induction charge is more dense than hot air induction,making the combustion process more effective. so removing items which insulate the engine from cold air(especially ram effect cold air as you accelerate) will help the engine breathe 1.remove the plastic sump tray which doubles as a splash guard,how important this is to you may depend on how much deep water you regularly pass through,but for townies it is of limited use 2.on the 2.0 and 2.3,remove the front pipe in front of the air filter box completely to aid ram effect,the air will then be drawn from around the base of the passenger side headlight. 3.remove the base of the air filter housing,and make 3 half centimetre holes by sticking a screw driver through the dirt collection cones moulded into the base there will be a slight increase in induction noise but this just tells you the intake is less restricted