vodkas

Quite often push it up to 110 - 115 and it drives very nicely. Once took it to 130 in the early hours but only got 8 mpg.

Thats what we used to do to the apprentices 'Pack Their Nuts With Grease' LOL

Went Down this road about 2 months back when I found that the top bushes on the shock absorbers had too much play in them. I was at my mates garage who has every tool and gadget at his disposal but were unsuccessful at removing the struts without damage. The nuts were rusted solid and the small hexagonal slot at the top of the strut rounded off very quickerly. New shockies worked out at about

Been getting a bad crackling sound coming from the fuse box inside the car, sounded a bit scarey at first and couldn't find out what it was. Realised it was a relay chattering away. eventually found that if I turned my heated seats off, the relay stopped and it started chattering again when the seats heated back up, must be something to do with the thermostat. Have not looked to far into it yet but the relay is in the fuse box by the drivers footwell.

My v6 is overheating intermittently. Usually the cooling fans kick in around 3/4 of the way up the temp guage and shut off when it gets to the middle. This to me looks normal. Some times the temperature will reach just before the red before they cut in and then cut off in the middle. Other times it will carry on creeping into the red and the warning light will come on and still no cooling fans. Both fans when working come on together and I can force them on by activating a/c. This is usually enough to bring the temp back down. The two large high current fan relays are working ok as i can trigger these at will. I have noticed 3 sensors on the thermostat housing and 1 in the radiator. I am not sure what all these are, I assume temp guage sensor, ecu temp sensor, fan trigger sensor etc but which is which. I am thinking there is something wrong with the temp sensor that triggers the cooling fans to come on or a small control relay sticking. Can anybody point me in right direction of what to look at first. ta

For the last few weeks had a noise coming from the front which sounds like a wheel wobbling very slightly whilst turning but nothing is felt through the steering wheel. Lifted the front and without removing wheels checked for play. All I could find was a slightly worn rubber bush at the rear or the lower arm. Wheel bearings seemed fine. I will be fitting new bushes at the weekend. Does this wobble and the ABS problem have anything in common that I could look for ie the CV joints that you mentioned earlier.

My ABS has started activating constantly at speeds under 20 mph, sometimes not 'till i get to 5-10 mph. Even with the most gentle of braking it is kicking in. There are no warning lights on the dash. Obviously the ECM thinks that a wheel is locking up but has any one had a similar problem. Is there a fuse or solenoid plug that I can pull in the mean time as braking is noisey as hell and the pedal goes rock hard. Thanks

The reason that i think it is getting hot and it is not just the temperature sender is the oil temperature readout went up to 150degrees c, very dangerous as you should stop if it reaches 140. With both reading very high it is unlickely that the 2 of them are at fault. I am sending the rad away on Monday for a flow test and re-core if it is needed

From the look if it, the rad looks perfect from the outside. Nice and clean with no signs of corrosion or oxidisation. Just started happening over the last 2-3 weeks.

My galaxy has just started to overheat. At low speeds, about 50 or lower it can just about hold its own with the dial almost in the red and 120 degrees oil. If i go faster it gets much worse very quickerly. The fans are coming on but it does not cool down like it used to. I changed the stat on Monday being the cheapest and easiest to do but had no effect. Tonight I managed to change the bitch of a water pump for a brand new one and had no effect. There is no loss of water and the system has been pressure tested. A dye test was also done to check for exaust gasses but that was ok. The water looked fine, bright and shiny with no signs of debri. The correct antifreeze/coolant has been checked every year. The only thing I can think of that is left is the radiator. When the cooling fans kick in, the air that is displaced goes cold very quickerly as if there is little flow through the rad. The temperature is reading very high but the bottom hose can be quite cool. It takes a while before the fans kick in and i noticed that the temperature sensor for the fans is on cool side of the radiator. It looks to me like a partial blockage, but have no idea how it has happened, it must be a circulation problem. If I put the heaters on full the engine temp does come down slightly. Is this a normal fault for radiators to block? is there a way to flush/test them or anything on the market to add that may clean it up? Supposed to be going on holiday next Friday, a good 300 miles in each direction, desperate to get it fixed and keep the family happy.

Panic over. Turned out to be fuse 14 (well actually fuse holder 14). Previously checked all fuses and they were ok. Give the TIS cd a going over and it kept pointing me to said fuse. Really crappy connection. Gave it a wiggle, pushed it in a few times and will do for now. A real pain in the arse having to smoke out of the sunroof lol.

Got in my car to drive home and noticed no electric windows working, not any of them. Also no display on AC, no elec windows, front heated screen, heated seats, even reversing sensors. I am hoping its just a high current fuse somewhere but I cant find it. The 2 biggest fuses I could find were 40amp in the fuse box under the bonnet and they were ok. Any ideas where to look for the offending item, could it be a main power relay?.

Full catestrophic failure of compressor. Killed aux drive belt and left me stranded.

For the moment I will have to get warm. The clutch has been electrically isolated so I can't engage it by mistake and the climate control can still run in auto mode. Obviously there is no chilling or dehumidifying but you can set a temperature and use the outside air same as eco mode. I AIN'T SPENDING

Now that the compressor is banjaxed i ran an AC specialist for advise and price. New comp