snapper

I am a experienced kit car builder but know my limits. Gearboxes I want to try some of the easier cheaper fixes before either replacing with a scrapyard box, converting to manual or scrapping it. The engine is still sweet, it's got the whistles and bells and has the torque to pull a track car, trailer and 1/2 a car load of spares. I could with some ideas to try, the more the better, I will then have a go starting with the cheaper ones. Any pointers much appreciated

Thank you for your most unhelpful post.

I had retired my 1997 V6 auto after another auto box failure a year ago, but today i thought i might try topping up the oil. First off the whole filler tube came out and i lost about a litre and a half, then the level tube would not come out and i rounded the allen socket. So not to be defeated i just topped it up until it over flowed out of the filler. I know it is now too full but it did present some interesting side effects. First, originally when the car first lost drive it was towed home and pushed on the drive, it literally had no forward or reverse drive, it just revved in any gear, no drive. Now it has some forward drive, if held on the brake it will pull as if trying to move against the brake. If in neutral it will pull forward. If in reverse it will lock up the torque converter so the engine will not rev past about 2500 but has no reverse motion, it won't roll forward as it previously did. I know a further step is to fill the box correctly but this will require me towing it to a barn i share with some fellow kit car builders to access the complete range of tools and ramps for the job. Any ideas to the problem seems to simple to just be an oil level problem. What else could i check at home

Thanks. I did see that post but thought it was for a 2.3? If thats how you do it on a V6 VWOP Ta. Will get on to it soon. I know i am pushing my luck..... but what fluid do i need to look for? and what amount is needed to fill the box? As always any info much appreciated

Well, I have a problem. The old girl (1995) has lost oil in the V6 VWOP auto box, looks like it has blown the gearbox sump oil seal. But its a sealed for life unit. Replaced the box at huge expense a few years ago and have managed to keep it going for a 140,000 miles until now. Its so usefull I don't want to loose it but can't throw big money at it. I need to know how much oil it needs, what oil it requires and how do i fill it. Last bit of info, how do i know if it is full? The only info i have found is that you can fill it once you have removed the speed sensor through the hole.

All shocks have oil, the difference is air over oil or inert gas over oil, it helps to disipate heat and does not expand as much as air helping the shock to perform better in spirited driving situations. Unless you change all the rubber bushes and probably the springs all you will do is make the ride a bit harder. Springs and anti roll bars are what reduces the roll in corners, shocks keep the tyres on the road. Unfortunately there is no cheap way to sport up a car. 130K, a good set of standard shocks and use the saved cash on bushes would probably make a bigger difference than just gas shocks

The drive shaft UJ's are suspect on Galaxy's, listen for a Clunk when throtle on or off. Try windows open steady speed then on off the gas. I found you could pipoint left or right and almost inside or outside UJ.

If you are towing it's torque you want, it will make a big difference on how the car and van feel. No easy way to tune an engine without changing things like cams and head then you would probably move the power higher up the rev range, no good for towing. Your only real options unless changing to a bigger engined car or a turbo diesel is to get the engine into the best condition you can, plugs leads etc, then a free flow inlet filter with cold air feed and a chip upgrade but specify more torque. Weight is your enemy but if you tow a van and have 4 or more peopl then you have probably and extra 1000Kg to haul. 54 BHP per ton a Corsa has twice that

UPDATE Got the car diagnosed by a friendly VW engineer and found communication fault ABS to diag computer so looked at the fuse box, 3 fusses 2 x 30 amp 1 x 10 amp. 10 amp blown so replaced, lights go out but blows again in 10 mile replace again this time with 15 amp fuse no problem since. Conclude that after valet car has water in the connectors. will replace higher rated fuse with 10 amp and monitor. Abs problem still with intermittent fault but this is rear right sensor, or sensor ring, or broken wire/connector, another job for another weekend.

The V6 is very front heavy and if you are an enthusiastic driver you will eat the outside edge on front and back. One tyre place recomended keeping the front tyres pumped up to the higher fully loaded presures and even as much as 44psi. I have reduced the excessive wear but eliminated it completely

Check the wiring and connector plugs first and dont forget the 3 fuses in the fuse box.

If it is the balance shaft then engine out and much the same cost as a camshaft but i have never heard of one breaking. It could be oil pressure to the hydraulic followers, that would make the top end tick like hell. One trick to try and isolate the area where the racket is coming from is to use a very long screwdriver place the tip at various points on the engine and your ear on the handle then touch the screwdriver to the sump, engine, front, back, both sides, bottom,middle top and then the cam cover, you can usually hear/feel where the noise is coming from and therfore get a better idea of what it may be. Mechanical things are easier to fix than the smoke and mirrors of the electrics like the ABS/brake warning light problem i am trying to solve. I am thinking of chuking out the V6 and putting the Pinto from my Super 7 in, clockwork, easy. :ph34r:

Discs and pads on all 4 wheels OK. Master cylinder levels checked OK Checked handbrake switch and wiring, all OK Master cylinder fluid level float switch tested, float switch action correct, continuity correct. Not sure about connection to master cylinder plug seems to show earthed on both wires. Not sure where to look next. Brake level warning light On, ABS light On.

Cars been on the drive since, no intention of driving a car with potentialy no brakes. Today i start to check and stripdown if necessary.

Right then, next weekend 1. Check fluid levels 2.check pads. May be time for a set of discs and pads allround, any tips on where to get them at more reasonable prices?