
neil
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Everything posted by neil
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Found my leak on drivers side footwell. After doing all the checks mentioned on the forum, scuttle drains, trim clips etc, it was the drain pipe from the sunroof. It appears to have come away right up in the roof lining where it fixes to the sunroof. It was running down the inside of the trim by the 'A' pillar and then down to the footwell. There were no tell tell marks on the out side of the trim to indicate water was running.
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VR6Galaxy - it certainly is.......thank you :D :D :o
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Spoke to Fords today, only sell the air intake pipe with the exhaust pipe -
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Manual, lift for reverse.
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Does anyone know wher i can get a reasonsably priced replacement for my worn leather gear knob. Fords want about
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oops - i think i have just found theanswer on another posting. The pipe apparently ends just inside the sill - is this correct? Also, is there a solid pipe on the newer versions?
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I have just stripped my heater down to replace the glowplug. Many thanks to all who have posted pics and tips on the subject, made it much easier. Had to drill out all four screws that were holding on the top cover but got there in the end. The air intake hose is a flexible metal type but appears to be on its last legs, almost disintegrating. I would like to replace it, but where does it connect to and is it an easy job ? It disappears into the sill area. I hope that when all is replaced it fires up without having to clear any fault codes, otherwise it may have to go to the local ford dealers. Thanks
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Thanks for the replies gents, i think you have all contributed to the answer in one way or other. What i was trying to ascertain was wether the rear heater (operated from the dash switch), was an additional heat source to the front heater. ie does it have its own heater. It would now appear that all the rear heater really does is blow the same heat source as the front. As such it is not really an auxillary heater as an auxillary fan. Cheers Neil
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Hi Have read this thread with interest, but would like to ask a question. I have a 97 diesel with both auxillary,(dash switch and rear controls)and booster heater (under galaxy) fitted. If I understand correctly, the booster heater heats up the coolant water, but where does the auxillary heater draw its temperature from? Thanks
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Wire cutters or work it back and forth with pliers or something similar until it breaks. Come on...its so thin you could break it with your teeth.
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Why not just snip of the copper washer :blink:
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Brake Pads + Disk On Ebay
neil replied to Mauser's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
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Diy Aircon Top-up
neil replied to Masked Marauder's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
Very interested in trying this out and have followed the various links to suppliers. However, cannot seem to obtain a hose with a pressure gauge inline or the pencil type tester. Does anyone know where I can get either of these? Also, does anyone know whether Interdynamics has a UK distributer for their air con kits? -
Hi Need to buy a replacement 6 cd magazine for my 97 galaxy. Fords price is about
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What is the easiest way to locate check the brake fluid reservoir ?
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Paul / Justine Was this info of any use to you or any other member ?
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Peckish Where did you obtain the VAG-COM equipment? Is it expensive and how user friendly is it ? Ford want
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Paul / Justine I hope I can un-dash your false hopes for you. I purchased my cat from 'Eagle Exhaust and Catalysists in Doncaster. Give them a ring on 01302 729777 and ask to speak to Glin. I did yesterday, and the quote for a 97 2.3 Galaxy was
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Recently quoted around
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Still looking for advice, any other helpers ? :P
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Barney, what did you find wrong with the blue switch, and how did you know it was this one at fault and not the black one ?
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Topbloke, we seem to have our crossed wires here. My vehicle doesn't have cruise fitted and i don't think that this is anything to do with the problem. Thinking about it, the brake switches must work because the GP warning resets as soon as you touch the brakes. What faults does the flashing GP symbol cover ?
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:( Thanks Topbloke Yes it does have a switch on the clutch pedal, would this cause the GP warning light as well as the brake switches? My vehicle also has a 'light out' display on the dash, if this isn't showing a fault at the same time as the GP would this discount the faulty bulb theory ? Can you test the switches ? Also the 2 wire connector to the blue switch on the brake side can be fitted either way round, does it matter ?
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The blasted light is flashing again only 1 month after fitting a new brake switch and a new blue switch that is fitted underneath the black one. The fault only occurs after a reasonable cruising time without touching the brakes, putting the brakes on 'resets' the warning light for a short period. Cannot keep changing the switch every few months, even if they don't cost the earth. I have read all the previous posts on the subject but can someone offer some advanced help ? How can I test the switches to find which one is at fault (apart from disconnecting one at a time), is there something else I should be looking at ? Does anyone know exactly what the second blue brake switch is for ? Have seen various theories about ABS, cruise control etc but nothing definate. Vehical is a 97 1.9TDI Ghia without cruise control. Cheers : :(
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Geeberman - I have a 1.9 TDI 'P' reg. It is the same as yours having a blue and black switch for the brake pedal. The black (brake) switch is mounted above the blue switch and can only be fitted in this position due to the size of 'lugs' on the switch. To make your brake lights come on with only a small amount of pedal travel do the following, I have done this and it works, but it is a struggle <_< : First off, remove the blue switch and put it out of way. at the end of the brake switch plunger there is a flat top (the bit that rests on the pedal). Push the brake pedal down with one hand and using aflat screwdriver on the plunger flat. push it down towards the pedal. It should click down on its internal ratchet. This is fiddly and you may have to push the brake pedal down firmly to get enough distance to allow the switch plunger to move down one click. Job done. Replace blue switch If you havn't already done so, get a new switch, for about eight quid its not worth putting the old one back in. Both my switches are removed by turning clockwise, not anti clockwise as i have seen mentioned. Mine doesn't have cruise control, but has the blue switch. Ford couldn't tell me exactly was it was for but VW says it is something to do with the ECU. If someone knows what this swith does and how it works i would be interested.