Air Con Pipework

[Bigjeeze]

I have obtained a new pipe (Low Pressure side) that goes from the compressor to the pipes that go into the evaporator. There is a joint that has three seals at one end. However, There is no room to manouvre this pipe without ( or so it appears) taking off the entire front of the car. It looks like the bonnet landing and all the associated bits need to come off - Including the rad and the condensor (also the bumper). Has anyone any experience of doing this - do I need to remove the entire front or is there another way to do get at it. It's difficult to describe but there is a part of the front panel that forms a box that the offside headlamp fits in - and it is this that obstructs my access to the joint- (which is a push fit).

 

I'll post some pictures but any advice would be welcome.

 

 

Does anyone with EKTA or similar have any diagrams or PDF sheets on how to remove these pipes? My copy of ELSAWIN has died and I can't get it to run - TIS is plain useless.

Edited August 19, 2007 by Bigjeeze

[big_kev]

Which pipe is it ?

 

[Bigjeeze]

It looks like no 14 on the diagram - It gos from the compressor - via the low pressure access valve and some sort of seperator (all built in) to the pipe that then goes to the evaporator. There is a join which you can see on the diagram - it has three seals (no 17 on the diagram.

[Paul B]

Presumably your working on your Mark2? When I did my Air Con work (Compressor Replacement) I took off the Bumper (5 minute job) and Underside Cover (5 minute job).

 

I have tried to attach a photo of what you will see with the bumper off, but I'm not sure whether it's going to come out! Basically, undo the 3 hex scews in front the wheels (joins bumper to Wheel Arch Shield). Then undo hex screws on small front grille edge (with bonnet up, looking at the small grille with the Ford Badge on it). Jack the car up slightly, or place on ramps. Next, underneath you will see 3 fixing brackets spaced evely across the bumper. Using a Mains Terminal Screwdriver, push the centre pin through these making sure you see where it lands and pick it up, then remove the outer ring which is the fixing for the bumper. From memory, the one on the N/s is awkward to get to. You can push the centre pin through a hole, but it's awkward to retrieve the outer ring. Then with some help, pull the bumper forwards evenly on each side of the bumper just in front of the wheels. The bumper will then slide forward and you can lay it on the floor and disconnect the Fog Lights and Parking Sensors. With this off, there is loads of clearance under the car. You can access the High Pressure switch and some of the pipework, as well as the Condenser and the Dryer, should you need to. There's so much room with this off, that I didn't even need to jack the car up to take the compressor off and on again! Refitting is reversal of above obviously, but when replacing the underside Bumper Supports, you just place the outer ring in the hole and push the centre pin back in.

 

If the pics don't come out, I can always email them to you if you wish.

 

To remove the Underside Tray, just locate the four bolts holding it on, two nuts at the rear, and two bolts at the from if my memory is correct. You'll see them, there easy to find. I didn't even have to jack the car up to do this either with the bumper off.

 

If you're opening up the system then you should always replace the Dryer. It's an absolute pig to get out, if you want info and Pics on this, I can give them to you. After experience though, if you're going to change this, buy it from Ford. Cheaper ones are around, but you only get the Dryer in these. The Ford one, apparently, comes with all the replacement O Rings. Wished I had done this, but didn't realise at the time. It's about

[Bigjeeze]

Thanks Paul

 

I haven't as yet stripped it down as far as you have - mainly because I am not sure how far I will need to go. If I can strip it down enough to remove the front panel without taking off the condenser or the raditator then I am happy. Basically the pipe has a joint tht is underneath the back of the offside headlamp and as there is a chassis memeber it sits on I can't get at it properly - Also where the pipe bolts to the front panel there isn't any room to manouvre the thing off.

 

I will have to leave it if I do need to remove the rad etc as that would entail a couple of days off work.

[Paul B]

If you have time, try just taking the bumper off. It's amazing how much more room you have, and it might just help you access it better. It is really simple to do, and if it's no use then you can just put it back on again. I too didn't want to have to remove the Condenser and Radiator, this would have entailed a lot more work. I guess I was just lucky. I thought taking the bumper off was a major job, so I kept putting it off until I could no longer. Now it's been on and off about 6 times in all! It's so easy. I had just never came up against the fixings underneath, as on the TIS disk they're called "screws", but they're nothing like screws! It took me ages to figure it out, but once I realised you just push the centre pin through, I was laughing!

 

Let us know how you get on.

 

Ta

 

PB

[Bigjeeze]

 

I know this isn't a brilliant pic - But if you look at the cross member at the back of the picture you can see the pipe that goes to the bulkhead - there is a join there - The pipe looks flared - But I can't see how you can get the pipe out without removing the whole of the front panel as it has the headlamp "bucket" attached to it.

[Bigjeeze]

I've been backwards and forwards that much with this one, I've got completely mixed up - I just had the figures from the original regas in my head.

 

So they gassed it up wrongly the first time... definitely 550g on the first job sheet. :D

 

 

Thanks seatkid, you're my hero...

 

...and I won't be making a fool of myself tomorrow. :lol:

 

 

 

I know this isn't a brilliant pic - But if you look at the cross member at the back of the picture you can see the pipe that goes to the bulkhead - there is a join there - The pipe looks flared - But I can't see how you can get the pipe out without removing the whole of the front panel as it has the headlamp "bucket" attached to it.

 

Guys

 

Has anyone taken off an A/C pipe - particularly the ones where they appear to be a push fit - Although I can't get at it easily I could manage but I am not sure how it is disconnected! It looks like it should pull off - But it won't budge and I am scared of breaking the bloody thing. Is there any knack to this?

[seatkid]

Is it not a spring-lock connection or is that a mk I thing?

You would need the VW tool rather than the ford tool mentioned in earlier posts. Eurocarparts cat no. 245 77 0270 perhaps...

You put the tool on and press it to release the springlok and pull.....I think :D

Edited August 22, 2007 by seatkid

[Bigjeeze]

Thanks Seatkid

 

I have the correct tool - but the pipe is still extremely difficult to get off - without it appears removing the front panel. I'll probably cut away some of the fibre glass panel to get at it as I can't bear the thought of having to strip half the car down!!

[Bigjeeze]

Well after much swearing and cursing I managed to get the pipe off - It had corroded past the seals. I fitted the new one and am about to go back to Kwik Fit to pick it up - So fingers crossed. Whilst I am 100% sure I replaced a faulty pipe I am not so sure that I haven't done any further damage to pipework in trying to remove the thing!!

 

 

I'll let you know.

 

 

BJ

[bus_boy]

Hi big geeze - i have almost the same problem. Only on my pipe it has sheared in two at the bottom of the "u-bend". I got details from Ford that suggested to replace the pipe it would need 6 hours labour and involve removal of the whole front panel.

 

In a recent visit to my mechanic i got him to take a look at the job, and the pipe I purchaed from Ford. He didnt fancy the job and said that the pipe i had did not look like a fit to the join in the wing (in your second image).

 

Did you split and re-join the pipework without using any special tools?

Did you take off the whole front panel?

Did you purchase you replacement pipe from Ford.. and if so do you still have to part number on the bag?

 

Cheers

 

Andyb

[bus_boy]

bah - tried to edit my post and failed..... here is a better one in which i have spelt peoples names correctly!

#####################################################################

 

Hi bigjeeze - i have almost the same problem. Only on my pipe it has sheared in two at the bottom of the "u-bend". I got details from Ford that suggested to replace the pipe it would need 6 hours labour and involve removal of the whole front panel.

 

In a recent visit to my mechanic i got him to take a look at the job, and the pipe I purchaed from Ford. He didnt fancy the job and said that the pipe i had did not look like a fit to the join in the wing (in your second image).

 

Did you split and re-join the pipework without using any special tools?

Did you take off the whole front panel?

Did you purchase you replacement pipe from Ford.. and if so do you still have to part number on the bag?

 

 

Paul B >> Information on the receiver/dryer install would be very handy. It looks like i'll be tackling this job soon.

 

 

Cheers

 

Andyb

[Bigjeeze]

Hi Bus Boy

 

Yes I had to sperate th epipe at the join you can just see on the photo and Yes it's probably correct that you need to remove the whole front panel. In the end I took out the headlamp and then cut away some of the fibre glass to access the joint. You do need a special tool - cheap but necessary - then in theory the pipe just pulls off - Of course mine didn't. I had it regassed etc today but after working initially it has failed again but I have yet to work out why.

 

I won't get a chance to do it before Sunday but I will let you know the Ford part number and I wlll post a few pics of the hatchet job I have yet to repair to the fibre glass. It's quite probable in trying to seperate the pipes I have done some other damage - but as I say I can't tell as yet.

[Bigjeeze]

Hi Bus Boy

 

If you haven't got fed up waiting the part no is YM2H 19997 AD -

 

Regards

 

BJ

[bus_boy]

Cheers BigJ - i have exactly the same part here on the desk. Will order up the special tool (thanks SeatKid).

 

Now all i need is a clear day and a decent hacksaw.

 

Still, aircon is useful in the winter for clearing the screen - at least that's what I'm saying to missus.

[seatkid]

Hacksaw?? :lol:

[bus_boy]

Big J suggests that he might have to "cut away some of the fibre glass panel to get at it". I intend to follow him. A padsaw might be more use!

[Bigjeeze]

Big J suggests that he might have to "cut away some of the fibre glass panel to get at it". I intend to follow him. A padsaw might be more use!

 

 

Hi Busboy

 

I'll post some pics of the "cutaway" - it's just that I can't be arsed to take out the headlamp to do the pics!.

 

I actually used a hole saw and took out 1" discs until I could get at it . In the event the pipe was seized on and took a tremendous amount of swearing before it would come off. Re fitting wasn't too bad. I then took it to Kiwk Fits had it gassed but it appears to have leaked again. I will add some dye and see what i can see.

[gn8691]

Might be an idea to get it pressure tested by an a/c specialist who should be able to locate the leak without filling with gas again.

 

Dye is not always as easy as it sounds.

 

Good luck

[Bigjeeze]

Might be an idea to get it pressure tested by an a/c specialist who should be able to locate the leak without filling with gas again.

 

Dye is not always as easy as it sounds.

 

Good luck

 

 

If I could find one I could trust I would do that - But apart form Kwik Fit the three "specialists" I have tried have all been total con artists. The worst case would have cost me

[gn8691]

Cant say I know anyone down there.

 

Once bitten twice shy as they say <_< or 3 times bitten in your case.

 

I dont blame you for trying to sort it yourself.

 

Did any of these specialist use nitrogen to pressure test while you were present?

[mobile armchair]

Have no idea whether this helps. My air con failed, took it Kwik Fit for regas. They said it was pump failure (it wasn't), and said repair would involve removing front o/s headlamp unit.

 

Took it to my usual mechanic; they tried regas, it failed again after 2 days. Clue now to problem was hot air blowing in car all the time which revealed problem around radiator. Took it back to mechanic who submitted it to Fraud dealer check (as car still under extended warranty). They charged

[Bigjeeze]

Cant say I know anyone down there.

 

Once bitten twice shy as they say ;) or 3 times bitten in your case.

 

I dont blame you for trying to sort it yourself.

 

Did any of these specialist use nitrogen to pressure test while you were present?

 

 

No they didn't - But the good news is I decided to use the last of my Halfords top up stuff in a last ditch attempt to get the thing to work - and eureka it's working!! I was in London today - outside was 26c and I was as cool as a cucumber (that had been kept in a cold fridge). I checked the vent temperature - My Mrs' MK1 - 7.5c Mine 11c - Not perfect but at least so far it appears to be maintaining it's cool!!!

[Bigjeeze]

 

Finally did those pics. I took out the headlamp - Then cut away some of the fibre glass so that i could get at the union - Then Fibre glassed it again.