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Guest Paul Collins
Posted

I've bitten the bullet, this weekend I will fit the remote locking alarm system (I figure a 4 day break means I can throw my toys out of the pram and come back to it later :-) )

 

To all thos who've done it, where did you tap into the central locking and power wires?

 

I could go down underneath the passenger seat, but it seems a long way to run wires from the bulkhead if the looms goes any closer to the alarm.

 

By the way, isn't changing the heater control illumination bulb a pig?

Posted

Just out of interest, which central locking remote did you buy?

Are you pleased with it? Was it difficult to fit?

 

Thinking of purchasing one myself, but not sure what which one to buy for the best value. Seen the Microscan SCL3000 for

Posted

All wires are at fuse box or loom from door

If its alarm then passenger footwell has rubber grommet too engine bay use a coat hanger as its way way to the back of enginebay compartment.

 

Setting is possitive lock unlock

Central Locking

 

Central Door Locking Type Multipoint Positive

 

Lock Wire GREY WIRE LOCATED IN O/S DOOR HARNESS M/PLUG. ( DEAD LOCKING ).

 

Unlock wire GREEN/RED x 2 WIRES LOCATED IN O/S DOOR HARNESS M/PLUG.

 

CDL Notes ON 98 MODELS WITH THE LONG FUSEBOX AND NORMAL SIZE BLADE FUSES- LOCK IS BLACK/RED, UNLOCK IS GREEN/BLUE. POSITIVE CONTROL.

BOTH WIRES CAN BE FOUND IN LOOM BEHIND FUSEBOX.

 

Hope this helps if you want more tech help get back to me

 

Ian

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hi All,

 

Just bought a Cobra 1046 remote locking system and need some advice on fitting.

 

I believe on my car 2000 (W) Zetec TDI 110 .. the CDL is in the fusebox am I right?

 

Also the wires I think I need are :

 

1) Grey - Unlock

2) Green/Red - Lock

 

I assume I don't need to worry about ignition wires etc..

 

Also because the car already flashes the indicators when locked/unlocked with the key I assume I don't need to connect the yellow wires from the remote system to the flashers.

 

The only thing I am not sure about is the connection of the wire for global closing.

On the remote system the wire is Brown/White -- what do I connect this to on the car? <_<

 

Any help appreciated.

 

Thanks.

 

Mussey1.

Posted

All info is a previous post re wiring

Cdl wires will be found in loom to door

indicators may not flash with new unit test to see if yellow wires need to be connected.

 

Total closure you need to extend lock wire pulse using closure wire from rc box

 

This must be a positive feed ensure this is the case if not use a relay to change it over

 

Hope this helps

 

Regards Ian

Posted

Removed the lower half of the facia and a look in and around the fusebox for the connector that I need to find, apparently it is a green connector labelled P6.

 

Does anyone know if this is in the fusebox or is it hidden behind i.e will a need to take the fusebox out?

 

Any help appreciated.

 

Mussey1. :)

Posted

Yes 2 clips one each side White me thinks then push fuse box up and towards you

it will come out far enough for you go get at the wires at the back

 

Go on dont be shy

Posted

You could if your not up to it find all the wires under passenger seat as well ( not sure about indicators though)

 

This is where the cdl / interior light relaybox etc

 

Ian

Posted

Got the job done on Saturday in between the snow showers.

 

Only took a couple of hours.. quite straightforward only needed the four wires, no need for indicator wires etc. Global closure also works.

 

Able to do all the wiring from the fusebox, however I gad to take it out to get better access.

 

Didn't use scotchlocks as I was told they can be unreliable.. better to slightly strip the wire and use insulation tape.

 

Now that I have done the job if anyone needs any help just give me a shout and I'll try to be of assistance.

 

The cobra system is good.. I would recommend it!!!!!

 

Mussey1.

 

:huh:

Posted

We too would like remote central locking, we're getting fed up with these sticky locks, but any DIY is beyond me so I phoned the main Ford dealer for a quote. The sales guy rang back.....

"I've spoken to my colleague and he says the cost would be too prohibitive for the benefits, it's not just a matter of fitting a box of tricks we'd have to get access to the loom and re-wire, it would cost hundreds". Astounded I replied

" But I know there are some DIYers on the Galaxy users website who are doing it themselves".

"Well I'm sorry I can't give you a different answer but that's what I've been told"

So aren't I the lucky one with such a considerate local Ford Main Dealer, they didn't want to swindle me out of hundreds of pounds for a system that would not benefit me. How can we on this site now continue to call them Fraud Dealers?

Posted

Bushm,

 

Just to let you know before I fitted the system myself I phoned a few auto electricians to get quotes for fitting the system.

 

The only reply I got was that it was a really complex job and that door panels had to be removed etc etc....

 

Not so..

 

If you buy a system for approx

Posted
i am not going to advertise but being a cobra dealer you should be able to get the unit supplied and fitted for less than 90 anyway...... full alarm 150 (not insurance approved. gary) this is not a sales pitch just ring around, dont just find the largest ad in yellow pages there are a lot of independents out there who take more care and have more knowledge. gary
  • 1 month later...
Posted

A question for Mussey1 or EVSS or anyone else with the Cobra 1046 remote locking system.

I imagine you must get 2 (?) remote units or fobs that attach to your car key ring. How big are they and what do they look like? Any photos would be welcome.

Thanks in advance.

 

Max.

Posted

Alistair,

 

1) Connector circled in red contains central locking wires..

Grey(Lock)

Green/Red(Unlock)

 

2) White clips circled in green need to be removed to allow fusebox to be released.

There is enough slack in the cables to allow you to get to the rear of the box.

 

3) Cable grip circled in blue also needs to be undone to give you better access to wires, when you have removed the green connector from its socket.

 

4) Insulation tape circled in yellow shows where I tapped wire for positive feed.

 

Remember it it is better to remove the lower dash before you start as it will give you better access to the earth connections and space to mount the remote module.

 

If you need any more info let me know.

 

Mussey1.

post-62-1079727749.jpg

Posted

koro,

 

When you remove the lower dash you will see a main earthing point. This is a nut with loads of different earth leads attached to it. I used a crimping tool and attached a 'u' or horseshoe type connector to the end of the the earth wire from my remote locking module, slackened the nut on the earthing point, slid in the connector and tightened the nut again. Took about 1 minute!!

 

The earth point is behind the dash in the general area circled in red in the attached photo.

 

Mussey1.

post-62-1079729462.jpg

Posted

Koro,

 

The galaxy has a 'Positive' locking system, it may mention that in your wiring instructions.

 

You may find that there are other wires that you need to connect to the red live wire.

 

In my case the purple/white and orange/white from the remote module had to be

joined together and then connected to the postitive.

 

Mussey1.

Posted
Will try and find somewhere else to get an earth, on my VW earth bolt is where you say it is, except it is a job and and half to get to it. There is to much dash to take off.

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