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Posted

hi guys

i got a 2.0 petrol dohc 1997 65k gal

 

there is no leaks anywhere & the oil is perfik claen.

 

the prob i got (i am new to the galaxy) is

it is on the max of the dip stick & min a month later.

also the exp tank (rad) is to the max then min 4 week's later

 

is this something i should worry about as the car is used around town & on short jurneys and there is no excess smoke from the exhaust or is there any

white build up on any pipes or oil leaks on the head or on the floor .

she pulls greeaaat so no probs there & i had it pressure checkd & all was fine

 

is this common ???

 

any help would be great.

 

thank's in advance

Posted

Get a compression test done m8 - But... sounds like either the head gasket or an internal crack/leakage in the head or block..

 

More info... I assume it starts ok from cold?

 

If so, after running it and getting it warm, is it at all reluctant to restart?

 

Good indication of internal leakage, when motor is hot, the compression keeps the oil and/or water out of the cylinders.. When you park up, the pressure in the cooling system causes it to be forced back into the cylinders causing a lot of cranking before it will start..

 

Also, can you see bubbles in the coolant expansion tank?

 

Let us know..

 

Mike

Posted

it's bee pressure tested & it's fine

it starts firt time all the time cold or hot

it runs smoothly & pulls like a 2.8

there is no bubble in the exp tank that i can see m8

there is no leaks for hed case or pipes etc

 

i recon it just uses oil & water but i'm no

mechanic oh sorry engineer lol

Posted

it runs smoothly & pulls like a 2.8

YEAH RIGHT :o is that when us VR6 owners leave our key's at home! :ph34r: it's a 2ltr it aint got enough power to pull the skin off a cold tinned rice pudding :ph34r:

my mum can provide more power on her exercise bike and she has had a hip replacement op ! :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :lol:

Posted

An engine compression test may not show up a minor head breach when it comes to coolant. I speak from personal experience there. It needs the coolant pressure tested. You do this with a (expensive, not DIY) kit that pressurises the coolant, and you then leave it and check for pressure drop.

 

Minor leaks in coolant are a pain to find, if they are internal you will find it hard to see them for obvious reasons! External leaks can be spotted by crusty white deposits round the seeping pipe. Also a failing water pump will lose a little coolant, so check there. If that fails then you need to use a kit that has a fluid you add to the water that glows under ultraviolet light to find the leak.

Posted

fred

don't try to be funnymate

i used it as an example

 

get a life

is all your life spent on your commy ??

get out more

i recon you are sat in your gal on t=your laptop

through your mobile phone lol :)

Posted

:) hehe poor ol Fredt is obsessed about that old lump of his - too much sniffing LPG methinks.

 

Dellboy - From what you say its likely the oil and water leaks arent connected.

 

start with a good visual inspection under and around engine.

 

Oil leaks may not show as drips on the floor - theres lots of places for the oil to go e.g. when my oil filter leaked (overtightened by dealer) it coated the entire undertray and underbelly of the car - what a mess - check under the oil filter, around sump and rocker gaskets etc.

 

Likewise check water hoses for tell tale signs - but here I suspect youv'e simply got a duff expansion tank cap - theyre not that expensive to change.

 

If you've got damp + smells around heater, the matrix may be leaking.

Posted
fred

dont try to be funnt mate

i used it as an example

 

get a life

is ali your life spent on your commy ??

get out more

Get out more! ok I will, while I'm out I'l pick up a dictionary for you along with a haynes book and a sense of humour :) that be ok with you or is there anything else I could get for you while I'm at it?

Posted

Delboyt is evidentally referring to a Ford MAF - I personally think the leaks are not due to this.

 

Come on Fredt...don't be a girls blouse and get posting... or would you like me to say something that really winds you up (again)? ;)

 

BTW, thinking of changing my name to seatkidt.....its seems to be the fashion....

Posted

i think i sorted the water leak out

it was the seal on the cap

replaced it & turned it so it was

bloody tight & it done the trick.

 

i can live the oil as the car is running smooth & there is defo no

leaks that i can see as i had a friend

check it underneath & he said it was fine.

 

fred i do apologise if i offended you saying my 2.0 pulled like a 2.8 i was trying to make a point as i get emails saying doe's it have enough power &

is it pulling ok .

 

that's why i put it in to save wasted emails m8

 

still friends i hope ?

Posted
... as i get emails saying does it have enough power &

is it pulling ok .

What strange friends you have!

Posted

TELL ME ABOUT IT IVOR

 

SOME PEPS DON'T LIKE IT THROWN BACK AT THEM LOL

 

I DO NOT LIKE UPSETTING PEOPLE SO I THAUGHT I WOULD BE GROWN UP

ABOUT IT LOL

 

ONE DOWN

 

1000'S TO GOT

Guest vr6galaxy
Posted
i think i sorted the water leak out

it was the seal on the cap

replaced it & turned it so it was

bloody tight & it done the trick.

 

Has that fixed the coolant loss? the header tank cap seal leaking is a fairly common over looked cause of coolant loss, my supervisors VW Bora went back three times before they found the cause of the coolant loss, each time they pressure tested it and found no leaks! it was only when they went to stick the cap back on for the third time and they struggled to do it up, did they check the seal! it had stretched/expanded and was allowing the hot coolant/steam to leak out under pressure!

Posted

hi m8

 

that's what was happening to mine bad seal

the bulb's has gone on the instrument panel nw

the ones where the heater controls are

how do i check or remove it ?

the lishts work on the air con & circ controls but that's it

 

any ideas ?

 

also

what fure do i look for

Guest vr6galaxy
Posted
Carefully prize out the surround from around the heater control knobs, you then need to remove the clear plastic light ring, inbetween the air flow direction knob and the temperature control knob is the bulb, using a pair of thin nosed pliers you should now be able to remove the bulb
  • 6 months later...
Posted

Phew! Glad I read this thread.

 

My Alhambra was stood for 3 weeks whilst I was out of the country, when I started it up, within 200 yards I got a STOP immediately and check coolant warning. It was down to the neck of the expansion tank. I filled it up, checked it a week later and it was fine, no loss. I've just done a 100 mile trip and it required 1 litre to top it back up.

 

I was panicking, I checked the oil, no sign of mayonaise, and no sign of any leaks. I am due to tow the caravan to France next month so I was getting worried, so I came on here to do a search and found the "could be the seal on the expantion tank cap". Phew - Hope it is, I'll check it tomorrow. Maybe it dried out whilst it was stood in all that hot weather we had?

Posted

I must admit, since my cambelt was changed, I do now hear a whirring when I rev high that I didn't here before, I think I need to

1. check the cap,

2. check where the pump is located and watch/listen

Posted
Ahh, well the new belt will be tighter and pulling the pump spindle to one side in the worn bushing causing seeping.
Posted

I just checked the cap (can't see a seal in it) now the engine has cooled (1 hour)sufficiently and it gave a psst as I unscrewed it, so there is pressure there.

 

I'll go have another look but I thought the water pump was on the side where the expansion tank/battery is located......

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