Power Loss - All Revs

[Smilge]

Hi Peeps , need some help on this one.

 

Fitted a subwoofer and unfortunately with all the door lights being on whilst working on the car, the battery went flat! OK ......Time to get Marky to give me a jump start.

 

Jump...... started fine. Pulled away ....... what's this? ......... no acceleration!??

 

This is awful!!!! No acceleration in any gear and really lacking power whatsoever going uphill. mmmmm .... MAF sensor? ....... Stopped and disconnected MAF sensor. Try again ...... no, still exactly the same. MAF plug back on.

 

OK still drivable and can get up to 70 /80 on a level road but it takes a good half an hour.

 

Back home ....... battery disconnected for half an hour to clear faults. TIS procedure followed to set idle and drive values up and driven for another 5 miles. Still exactly the same!!????

 

Rang Steve....... coming round later to read any faults.

 

Any ideas will be greatly received.

 

Chris

[Smilge]

Update:

 

Steve read codes using Snap-on diagnostic reader:- Mass Air Flow Sensor - Open / Short circuit to ground. :lol:

 

During road test MAF readings were 350 mg/S lower than desired values (also Turbo pressure lower than desired but this is due to MAF output incorrect, EGR values OK) :D

 

Steve 90% certain MAF at fault.

 

On further reflection, when jump starting I reckon a "spike" has damaged the MAF and I've read somewhere about a similar problem on this forum. :D

 

So peeps, I'm not aware of anyone locally who can swap their MAF for diagnostic purposes so where's the best place to get one? :lol:

 

Kind regards

 

Chris

[Dave-G]

GSF usually have them at a good price. I wonder if youv'e stumbled on a thing that knacks the MAF? Maybe a good idea to unplug it when jump starting perhaps?

[mumof4]

I got mine from ebay....next day delivery and was a bosch one.66 quid inc delivery i think it was.

[mumof4]

You can drive it with the maf disconnected..i did and it also passes an mot last yr without one..(think itwas last year)..

 

The maf iirc..is to do with emissions.

[Smilge]

GSF usually have them at a good price. I wonder if youv'e stumbled on a thing that knacks the MAF? Maybe a good idea to unplug it when jump starting perhaps?

 

Dave, whats GSF and how much am I looking at?

 

I reckon you could be right about disconnecting them. Now talking to Steve, he reckons you should NEVER connect the negative lead to the negative terminal on the battery, only to a metal part of the car usually the engine. He has known this on numerous occasions and reckons this is the biggest cause of blowing ECU's and said I hope I havent done the same with mine! He did mention though that this would have been picked up on the fault reader ....... fingers crossed.

 

I reckon it might be worth adding a pinned jump starting procedure so that doesnt happen to others ...what do you think?

 

Thanks for your reply Dave

 

Chris

[NikpV]

While not denying any possible risk involved I would have to say we have jump started our galaxy with no apparent side effects (negative - connected to battery)

[mumof4]

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/

 

Hope this helps

[Smilge]

While not denying any possible risk involved I would have to say we have jump started our galaxy with no apparent side effects (negative - connected to battery)

 

I think you were lucky then Nik ...... according to the Bosch Electronic Systems book you should always connect the positive lead to the positive terminal first and then the negative lead to a metal part of the vehicle at least 0.5 meters from the battery.

[Smilge]

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/

 

Hope this helps

 

Thanks Maz ...... downloading the catalogue now.

[NikpV]

While not denying any possible risk involved I would have to say we have jump started our galaxy with no apparent side effects (negative - connected to battery)

 

I think you were lucky then Nik ...... according to the Bosch Electronic Systems book you should always connect the positive lead to the positive terminal first and then the negative lead to a metal part of the vehicle at least 0.5 meters from the battery.

 

 

will be doing this in future I assume this is now needed because of the ecu/computer based control systems - over the years on older type cars many jump starts have appeared to cause little problem.

[Smilge]

will be doing this in future I assume this is now needed because of the ecu/computer based control systems - over the years on older type cars many jump starts have appeared to cause little problem.

 

I'll be honest Nik and never thought about it at the time, but Marky connected the leads to mine from his and he connected the negative first and I heard the sparking as he connected the positive. You're right to assume this is the procedure due to ECU based systems. Gone are the days of push starting cars to ...... that reminds me of a little story where my wife was sat in the Allegro while I pushed it ...... she had only selected 4th gear and with snow on the ground, made it very difficult to start. So I lost my temper, shouted for her to get out and slammed the door only to hear the glass in the door shatter! ..... Well not a happy teddy! :lol:

[scrote]

Hi Bleeno,

 

If you need one in a hurry and have to go to main stealers I found VW to be cheaper than Fraud by more than half - I think Fraud quoted

[Smilge]

Hi Bleeno,

 

If you need one in a hurry and have to go to main stealers I found VW to be cheaper than Fraud by more than half - I think Fraud quoted

[NikpV]

Hi Bleeno,

 

If you need one in a hurry and have to go to main stealers I found VW to be cheaper than Fraud by more than half - I think Fraud quoted

[Smilge]

Update:

 

Well changed the MAF sensor and guess what? ......... It's still the same ... no difference whatsover!!!! Now I am lost! ;)

 

Any ideas anyone?

[scrote]

recon MAF faulty ?

[tim-spam]

Basically, I think there are two possibilities:

 

1) The wiring to the MAF is damaged - hence the fault codes.

 

2) VNT not working. This could be jammed shut, the diaphragm could have failed, or one of the vacuum hoses associated with the turbo boost control could be leaking / blocked / disconnected.

 

If there has been no history of a sticking VNT, this would make the 'jammed shut' diagnosis unlikely. The vacuum diaphragms seem very robust, so the first thing I would do is to check that all vacuum hose and electrical connections are sound.

 

If they are sound, you could try dropping the under tray and seeing if the VNT moves when you start and stop the engine - with the engine stopped, it should be in its 'minimum' position, and with the engine idling, it should be in its 'maximum' position. There should be around 12mm of movement on the actuator rod between the two extremes.

 

Hope this helps.

Edited March 6, 2007 by tim-spam

[mumof4]

When mine was flat...there was a little hose that became disconnected at the back of where you put the oil in...umm...will try and find the pic.

 

 

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...10538&st=40

 

 

might not be that though.

 

 

look at post 63 aswell..better pics...

 

 

if its no difference....then maybe it wasnt the MAF at fault...maybe something has come adrift...........as stated before..maybe a vacuum pipe/hose.....worth just having a gander at all the pipes/hopes

[mumof4]

http://tdiclub.com/TDIFAQ/TDiFAQ-8.html#8)

 

Scroll down a bit to "e"

[mumof4]

Just a thought..maybe the ecu needs resetting???..disconnecting the battery for a bit to clear it??..like i had to with my oil level warning??

[Smilge]

Tim ...you're an absolute star!

 

Checking vacuum pipes as suggested and I also looked at your thread regarding Turbo etc ...and heres the culprit!

 

 

As you can see the plastic connecter pipe has snapped off the bottom of the Boost Control Solenoid. Next thing, is it worth super glueing or buying another? ...havent got a clue how much they are as I've spent

[NikpV]

so why the maf fault codes - it doesn't throw many faults at the best of times but to throw one when not faulty !!!!!!!!!

[Smilge]

so why the maf fault codes - it doesn't throw many faults at the best of times but to throw one when not faulty !!!!!!!!!

 

I was thinking that myself Nik .....anyway ordered a solenoid and as usual Frauds cant identify the part correctly because it has Audi part numbers on it. So a choice of three solenoids that look exactly the same on their microfiche. Lets hope they have the correct one and of course they dont hold it in stock. They reckon thursday for delivery which is a pain! :lol:

 

Oh and by the way the kind man refunded me for the MAF. :lol:

Edited March 6, 2007 by Bleeno

[tim-spam]

The boost control solenoid valve is sometimes referred to as the N75 valve - I think a VW agent would know which one to get, but I don't know if they can cross-reference the Ford part number - still, if your Ford dealer does get the right one there should be no problem.

 

Good result on the MAF refund!

Edited March 6, 2007 by tim-spam