Which Automatic Transmission Fluid For 5 Speed Box

[Dave-G]

I gave the missis pretty good detail about the car on a chit to nip into a VW dealership...

Gal/sharan 5 gear autobox, Dec 01 build, 115 bhp. 1 litre of atf + filler cap/clip/snap ring.

Came to

[NikpV]

G 052 162 A2 (for 1l) is what it says in elsawin for a 01 Sharan 1.9tdi auto (it only lists one automatic gearbox)

 

G 052 161 A1 is for 0.5l

[Dave-G]

Thanks Nik, do you know the number for 1 ltr please?

[NikpV]

Thanks Nik, do you know the number for 1 ltr please?

 

 

G 052 162 A2 (for 1l) is what it says in elsawin for a 01 Sharan 1.9tdi auto (it only lists one automatic gearbox)

 

G 052 161 A1 is for 0.5l

 

 

:wub: :wub:

[Vanbursta]

Just changed the autobox fluid in mine and I used the the same GO5 as you have just bought. Someone had used TQF in mine and I had a bad vibration at 1500 - 2000 rpm, the GO5 is an orangey colour and the box is MUCH better now, I need to do it a couple more times to completely flush out the red TQF. But yes its the right stuff, despite Ford trying to tell me that Dexron III will do. It also states in Fords TIS "do not use normal TQF as the frictional properties are different" and I can confirm the car is MUCH smoother and hardly any judder now.

[Dave-G]

Thanks Nik, do you know the number for 1 ltr please?

 

 

G 052 162 A2 (for 1l) is what it says in elsawin for a 01 Sharan 1.9tdi auto (it only lists one automatic gearbox)

 

G 052 161 A1 is for 0.5l

 

 

:( :lol:

 

Erm... o-yea, thanks :(

 

Now I understood that the filler cap would be mission impossible to locate from the above the engine compartment - Soooo, could someone just confirm that this little feller, sitting at a reasonably easy location is in fact the correct filler cap?

 

The cap with a red retainer in the centre - highlighted by torchlight :)

[Vanbursta]

It doesn't look anything like mine, on mine you can ONLY see it from below the car, it looks like a dipstick tube but is actually a red filler cap, with mine the red cap snaps off and then you pull the plug up and out (you need a new red cap afterwards), I have attached the full Ford procedure here for you to look at.

 

Note the Ford spec for the oil which is NO 52162 whereas VWs is GO 5 (they are the same stuff though)

 

Autobox_Oil_Change.pdf

[Dave-G]

According to the VW parts software which the guy showed me, the fluid he supplied was correct. The other fluid was for a 4 speed box. Both for a Sharan.

 

Hmm - I put half a litre of the fluid in the gearbox and it's made no difference. I guess the gearboxes would have some differences between a TDI and a VR6. I have found some signs of fluid in the undertray in the past and guessed it would be ATF. I'll get to do a full test drive later.

[zeplin43]

Atf oil G 052 990 A2 for my 09/2002 Seat Alambra tiptronic inf given by Seat dealer,and confirmed by vw.

[Dave-G]

Up date :D

 

After putting a full litre of fluid in and test driving when fully cold in three stages of about one third of a litre, things had improved to the point where I felt it's worth checking the level properly instead of risking an overfill. There was now only a very rare slip at full cold.

 

4~5 litre's of fluid came out of the Level plug. So much so that I thought it must be the wrong plug I'd tried :D

 

So I undid t'other one and emptied the gearbox, total fluid removed about 8 litre's. Took the opportunity to check the fluid for debri - nothing. Slightly blackened in colour, but still has a hint of red.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Can't even get half of it back in without it overflowing the level plug despite priming all the gears :(

 

Got to let it get full cold again for a test drive.

[theinsider]

i've looked at TIS and still dont really understand how you work out if the autobox level is right. i understand that the gal should be in park and engine running to check. The problem is how much oil should you let out of the test plug overflow. Is the level correct when it stops coming out? Really cant work out if mine is overfilled or not.

 

What does priming the gears actually do? and does it really make any difference? HEEEEEEEEELLLLLPPPPP PLEEEEEEEEAAAAAASSSSSSSSSE.

[littledaz]

The problem with checking these autoboxes is that the procedure is very specific. You must be able to check the auto fluid temperature in the box. The window is 35 - 45 degrees C. Auto fluid is directly affected by temperature, as the oil heats up it expands, so the level can change depending on temperature. If the pre-requisites are met, the amount of oil should be a small trickle. If it is not dripping out, top up and if gushing out, drain off. Bear in mind that you will probably have a small amount of fluid sitting in the test pipe when you first remove the check plug. Priming the gears allows the fluid to flow around the autobox, through the valve system and through the torque convertor, ensuring you get the correct level of fluid.

[theinsider]

thanks for that littledaz. just found out how to use my vagcom to measure the temperature. will have a bash at doing it 'properly' tomorrow. What is likely to happen if it's been overfilled in the past?

[littledaz]

Overfilling the fluid can cause it to aerate and froth up. This can cause the autobox to overheat and clutches to slip. Fluid level is critical which is why a specific temperature window is needed. The VW autobox in the Galaxy is usually classed as "filled for life" and generally don't require any attention unless you are having problems or just prefer to change your fluid regularly. Ford may recommend change intervals but, VW/Audi do not. If you are not experiencing any issues, I suspect your fluid level will be OK.

[theinsider]

Overfilling the fluid can cause it to aerate and froth up. This can cause the autobox to overheat and clutches to slip. Fluid level is critical which is why a specific temperature window is needed. The VW autobox in the Galaxy is usually classed as "filled for life" and generally don't require any attention unless you are having problems or just prefer to change your fluid regularly. Ford may recommend change intervals but, VW/Audi do not. If you are not experiencing any issues, I suspect your fluid level will be OK.

 

The gearbox has been thumping in to gear (not all of the time). Wasn't doing it on the test drive when i bought it 3 months ago. Started doing it a few days after. The serv hist shows a new autobox was fitted about 18 months ago by Ford (not by a dealer anywhere near me). Just thought it may be possible that its been overfilled ever since. Don't know much more about the history. Only other thing i can think of is that the autobox was changed for this reason but was not actually the problem (maybe ecu? pcm? loom? or was the new box simply not reprogrammed?? can shareware version of VAG COM do this sort of thing? i've read somewhere that after any major work like a change in gearbox that the pcm needs to be recoded? i wouldn't have put it past ford to have not done this (they may have even contracted the work out).

 

Couldn't get VAG COM to measure the temp of gearbox fluid ( a limitation of shareware version i suspect?)

[littledaz]

I am surprised you could not read your autobox temp. The shareware version will read the fluid temp in MVB 002 of the autobox ecu. See link here Vagcom versions.

 

As for your issue. Yes, the autobox ecu would have to have a basic setting carried out when replacement box was fitted. This can be carried out at anytime and sometimes rectifies shift quality issues. Basic settings needs fully registered version of Vagcom. The fluid level must be addressed first. Fluid too low or high can cause your issue.

Can you tell me exactly when your "thumping" occurs i.e. which gears?

I don't know if you're aware but, your autobox is made up of numerous clutches & brakes. Depending on which gears you are having the issue with, would determine whether you are having problems with a particular clutch/brake.

 

Of course, the "thumping" may not be autobox related, as you said.

[theinsider]

i have vag com version 409 i think (left laptop in work tonight and cant remember for definite). i'll play about some more at the weekend to try to measure the temp and then check the oil level.

 

If its not that i'm a bit stuck to know what to try next - do i buy vag com and try to recode? - is there a way of finding out if it this is the problem without just doing it?

 

when i first used vag com i was getting various eror codes but these have not reappeared since being cleared until this one cropped up last week a

'17550 P1142 Load Calculation Cross Check Lower Limit ExceededThrottle position sensor circuit range/performance problem (low input)' Cant find much info on t'net about what this relates to.

 

This one has been cleared and not reaapeared. No error codes have resulted in the light on dash coming on.

 

I'm thinking about taking the autobox controller out to check the pins and probably pop it open to see if theres anything obviously wrong with the circuit board. Anybody know how to get it out of the gal. Cant see any bolts / screws. Just to clarify theres an ECU (engine computer) and PCM (autobox computer)??? i assume the PCM would be the first one to look at? can the ecu cause such problems with the box or would it only affect the engine?

[littledaz]

17550 P1142 Load Calculation Cross Check Lower Limit ExceededThrottle position sensor circuit range/performance problem (low input

This is relating to your throttle valve body and maybe air mass meter(MAF). The throttle body requires basic setting from time to time but, maybe coked up. Recommend throttle body clean and basic settings (your version of Vagcom can't do this!). Also check MAF as this can seriously affect or even kill an autobox if defective. However, as the fault has not reappeared, it may have been an old uncleared fault.

 

Just to clarify theres an ECU (engine computer) and PCM (autobox computer)???

 

 

ECU & PCM are effectively the same thing. There are separate ECUs for autobox & engine but they do communicate with each for various functions i.e. throttle positon, engine rpm, load signal from MAF, etc.

Edited February 1, 2007 by littledaz

[littledaz]

Forgot to mention,

 

autobox ecu should be located beside your battery on inner wing.

[theinsider]

Tried this today........ made things better, but certainly not 'right' yet. Copied from Ross Tech

 

First, make sure there are no fault codes in the Auto Trans. Then, with the key in the on position, and engine OFF. Do not touch the accelerator pedal.

 

[select]

[01 - Engine]

[basic Settings - 04]

Set Group to "063"

[Go!]

Press accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and count out loud 3 seconds.

[Done, Go Back]

Release the accelerator pedal.

 

I'm not having any luck checking the autobox oil temp. Vag com gives an error message (measuring block -08, group 005) tried other groups 001-008 i think. Most showed error. (no fault codes though). Should engine be running for this or doesn't it make any difference?

[NikpV]

Tried this today........ made things better, but certainly not 'right' yet. Copied from Ross Tech

 

First, make sure there are no fault codes in the Auto Trans. Then, with the key in the on position, and engine OFF. Do not touch the accelerator pedal.

 

[select]

[01 - Engine]

[basic Settings - 04]

Set Group to "063"

[Go!]

Press accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and count out loud 3 seconds.

[Done, Go Back]

Release the accelerator pedal.

 

I'm not having any luck checking the autobox oil temp. Vag com gives an error message (measuring block -08, group 005) tried other groups 001-008 i think. Most showed error. (no fault codes though). Should engine be running for this or doesn't it make any difference?

 

I have a vague recollection that the engine should be running and also when you are actually checking the oil on the box as well.!!

[littledaz]

Tried this today........ made things better, but certainly not 'right' yet

 

Glad to hear we're making progress. The basic setting you carried out was for Kickdown. There is also Channel 060 (throttle valve position) in engine ecu and Channel 000 in autobox ecu. These basic settings do require the engine to be OFF but ignition ON. I would recommend cleaning the throttle body before carrying out the basic setting channel 060 though, as if it is heavily coked, it may throw an error when adapted.

 

I take it that your Vagcom is registered as you've carried out basic settings?

 

Can you communicate with anything in Gearbox Electronics (02) with Vagcom. If my info is correct, the MVB is 002 and not 005 which is switch positions i.e. P,N,D, tip. You do require engine running and autobox in P to check the fluid level but, you should still be able to read MVBs with just the ignition on.

[theinsider]

definitely cant communicate with much of auto trans ecu. tried all blocks from 001 to 025 today and could only access 003 (data for load etc), all others give error message 'error - not available'

 

could this be the problem ? does this mean the autobox ecu is kaput?

 

in a way i'd be glad if it was, at least it would explain the problems. haven driven it more today i don't think my fiddle with vag com to basic settings did actually make any difference. must have been wishful thinking! getting the harsh changes again today.

[littledaz]

could this be the problem ? does this mean the autobox ecu is kaput?

 

Hmmm.....could be! I'd be inclined to try somone else's Vagcom before commiting to a new ECU, 'cos they ain't cheap.

Can you communicate with other ECU's MVBs?

 

I would also try something you mentioned earlier, which was to disconnect the ECU. ECUs are like PCs, if they get their knickers in a twist, it sometimes helps if all power is removed from them for a few minutes so they can have a fresh reboot. This can rectify all manner of issues. If you can't disconnect the ECU try disconnecting the battery, just make sure you've got your radio code to hand if needed.

[littledaz]

I've just had a thought :lol:

 

Is your autobox 4 speed or 5 speed? I've assumed it is 5 speed as it is in a thread for 5 speed box. It will make a difference as to what procedures to follow.

 

If you can get the engine and gearbox codes, that would help.

 

Examples: engine - AYL (on sticker on intake manifold)

autobox - FBQ (stamped in to top of box casing)

 

I've also read some of your posts in Oct 2006 that your issue has got worse and it only affected certain gears. Which gears does it specifically affect now?