Rear Doors Won't Unlock!

[Guest hanleyd151]

Please could somebody help me!

 

Over xmas I have had the classic wet passenger footwell drama, and had windows and doors opening and closing on their own. Have taken advice on removal of the black box and dried it out and cleaned it up with a soft brush and refitted it higher using a couple of nuts... thanks for the advice...

 

i have also unblocked the drain behind the scuttle panel which caused the flooding..

 

my front(only)electric windows are working fine, but my central locking on the rear doors is constantly locked! and the drivers door led is no longer lighting up... front doors open and lock fine but just have a prob with rear doors :D

 

can anyone tell me if it is a key turning combination in the drivers door which will solve it or a fuse somewhere, or a component in me black ecu box?

 

i really would appreciate some advice -

 

F@?$%*G Blocked drain holes - do yourself a favour even if you haven't got a wet floor, go and unblock them anyway!

p.s. is there any manual way of unlocking rear doors if this an expensive electrical problem?

[Guest vr6galaxy]

If the unit is ok and from the sound of it I doubt it, if both these occurred during the flood, the loss of the LED and the rear door locks seem to much of a coincidence!

if the internal handles wont open the doors then the locks are dead locked :( the only way to open them is to remove the door cards and manually operated the lock, you will need to remove the rear seats in order to gain access to the door cards, behind the internal door release lever is a trim panel, unclip that and remove it, you now have access to the only screw holding on the card, remove it, if you have manual windows, the winder handle is removed by pulling the inner ring around the shaft away from the main handle parallel with the door, it should unclip and sit off centre, when it does the handle will pull off

now the fun bit :o the door card needs to be unclipped all around the bottom and both sides, once done lift the bottom of the card away slightly from the door and lift it upwards and out of the top of the door along where it meets the window

easy when you know how :lol:

you now should now see the grey expanded foam moisture barrier? DO NOT CUT IT! along the edges where its stuck to the door insert a sharp blade and cut through the sealant holding it in place as if your filleting a fish! you want to leave some of the sealer on both the door and the barrier so you can reseal it

with the barrier removed/peeled back you now have access to the doors internals

GOOD LUCK :D

[Guest hanleyd151]

Thanks Vr6, i'll be outside at first light pulling those door cards off!

 

I first had the rear door locking problem last thurs (xmas eve) the day of the flood, but didn't have chance to remove control box till boxing day, but on xmas day doors were functioning back to normal? beats me?

 

I have dried out footwell and compartment under passenger seat but maybe the two terminals that connect to black box could still be moist. is it worth me doing this?

 

As I had cleaned up the circuit board to looking brand new and the fact that the windows were ok I assumed that my ecu had survived, but I think your right Vr6, i don't think I have been so lucky. :(

 

Thank you for you valuable advice, you have given me some hope to sleep on and maybe a chance to save my relationship :lol:

 

p.s. just one last question if i may be cheeky, when I successfully open the deadlocked rear doors manually, will they electronically deadlock themselves again or should I sort the doors and disconnect the ecu and replace?

[Guest vr6galaxy]

 

p.s. just one last question if i may be cheeky, when I successfully open the deadlocked rear doors manually, will they electronically deadlock themselves again or should I sort the doors and disconnect the ecu and replace?

If you unplug the unit then the central locking wont operate and the doors wont dead lock, so you will have to manually lock the doors by pushing in the internal lever and using the key on the front doors and rear hatch, also if fitted the alarm wont work but the PAT's system will stop anyone driveing off with your car!

IIRC there are three units that control the central lockin the cost depends on the spec of your vehicle! the more it has the dearer the unit! there has been a couple of members who got a replacement unit from a company IIRC vagspare? do a search and see what pops up?

good luck on the door card removal! be careful with them as the plastic will be a bit stiffer and brittle due to the cold! and more prone to breaking :lol: if you have a fan heater try warming the cars interior up for a while before you start, it may help and keep you warm :(

[Guest hanleyd151]

my hero VR6 :lol:

 

i'll warm the car and say a short prayer and take a kalm tablet before snapping my door cards and then throwing them on the bonfire!

 

My galaxy is a no frills 1998 ® 2.3 Glx with not many extras so fingers crossed the ecu isn't the most expensive.

 

Thank you once again for your advice, much appreciated -- with no black box does it mean no elec front windows? as i didn't check before!!! no more questions i promise!

[Guest vr6galaxy]

IIRC you will loose the electric windows :lol: unplug the unit and try them to be sure? IIRC the unit also controls the global closure system?

[Guest hanleyd151]

Just taken out black box again, and electric windows work with the box removed so basically just without alarm and central locking until replace unit.

 

Frustrating because there is no visable damage to circuit board!

 

Not important but would be handy to know- Do all galaxys come with remote central locking?

I got three keys(no alarm remote) with mine, normal torch, red key and a thin type one which just does doors not ignition....? It is a glx so fairly basic.... the reason I ask is that on the black box Im about to destroy it says

 

CONTR ASY-R/CONTR LK & ALARM SYS MN (SIEMENS)

 

does all this code mean remote c locking and alarm unit? the reason I am asking is that I would very much like remote c locking and if its a case of just getting a key fob, that would be nice but doubt that Im that lucky!

 

 

Also if I leave out the black box which in my case only functioned as a flashing led in the door and power for my old c locking, could I get a good quality aftermarket alarm/immobilisor (clifford,etc)? that powers the central locking when the car is armed, bypassing the black box? or do these aftermarket alarm systems power themselves off the back of the original black box? any ideas?

 

How boring my problems are! back to removing rear door panels - not easy :lol:

[Guest vr6galaxy]

It was determined else where on the forum that you need to retain the black box if you wish to add a remote locking kit other wise it's a big rewiring job :lol: mines a GLX and it didnt have remote locking or alarm, I fitted a Toad Ai610 which gave me remote locking with a greater range than the standard Infra Red remote system, if yours has remote locking you should have two I/R recievers, one above the rear view mirror and one in the head lining near the rear hatch, if you have the factory fit alarm then you will have two large bump's above the seat belt mounts on the B post that look like speakers, these house the ultra sonic sensors

if you have neither of these then yours is the basic block box and isnt that dear! well not as dear as the others :(

[Guest hanleyd151]

great news, at least something is going my way! got the door cards off, but struggling to unlock the deadlock on the doors? what is it that I tug on? and does it take a good tug? sorry to be dim !

:lol:

[Guest vr6galaxy]

Now I'm into new ground here as mine didnt dead lock and I was able to open the doors from the inside! but I would imagine that if you removed the central locking motor you should be able to see the locking mech and trip it? or you could try and trick the locking motor by connecting it up to a set of fly leads! but try not to blow it up! :lol:

the cables you want are Green/Blue, Yellow/Blue and Yellow although the Brown will need shorting out to the doors metal work, and only use a low amperage fuse in the fly leads 3Amp, the circuit is protected by a 5Amp so using 3A shouldnt do any harm!

it may be worth your while popping into Halfords and getting a Haynes manual?

[Guest hanleyd151]

Had a little look at the central locking motor.... but I have hands the size of JCB buckets and although they are useful for some things, inside door cards there not :(

 

Jetted car with 3 hours of hot air to make sure all moisture has gone at one last attempt to use black box, but no luck.

 

The good news is that my car is so basic with no alarm etc, that even from my local dealer(Dinnnages) they will only charge

[Guest vr6galaxy]

That's about right I paid

[Guest hanleyd151]

What is the correct title for the black box ecu under passenger seat? :o

[Guest vr6galaxy]

From my invoice when mine was replaced, it was for the basic unit with no remote locking or alarm........

F1027466 MODULE DOOR LOCKING CONTROL

[Guest hanleyd151]

Had a lot of hassle trying to obtain a replacement central locking module :(

 

does anyone know any other mail order companies I could try before I have to surrender and go to my local ford dealer?

 

I know other members have suggested good companies in other posts but I can't find them for love nor money..

 

Any help would be very much appreciated :lol:

 

p.s. its the basic unit without alarm or remote locking.