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:lol: I have the same veihcle and have been told by many mechanics that the oil in the auto box will last the life of the engine unless it becomes contaminated or the box develops a leak if the box is playing up it is unlikely to be caused by the oil. if you go ahead and change the oil be very carefull the slightest contamination will shorten the life of the box drastically you may do more bad than good :unsure:

Transmission_Fluid_Drain_and_Refill.doc

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This one has caused me much angst. Had twice asked local Fraud garage and my village crew to check/change oil. Fraud failed to order in the parts and wanted the car back specially and the local crew could not identify the oil. I've had the car for a year now and not been happy with its notchy changing at times so, planning to tow a caravan at Easter, I pushed my local crew into going for it. Two days of numerous telephone calls failed to find anyone who could ident the oil. In desperation I went back to the local Fraud garage at the eleventh hour before we set off and asked them to get the oil. As the Owners manual says 7.5 ltr I asked them to get me 8 ltrs at just under

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Digging into TIS found that a change requires 7 ltrs! The box has 2 holes on the bottom - one drains, the other is for checking the level: if oil comes out when you remove the check bolt the box is full or over full. If none comes out it needs oil!

 

Thanks for the info. I do have a so called TIS disk but don't seem to be able to find relevant diagrams on it - don't know if there are different versions of TIS disk - got mine from e-bay. Can you give any more detailed info or diagrams on which gearbox bolt does what?

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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest seatalhambra

my tip gearbox - diesel auto 115hp 5 speed made by jatco- is slipping in 4-5 on accelleration. fine on 3rd. bloody annoying as you can only really inc speed when on flat or downhill gently. Prob pxing car to get rid of problem.

 

Do you think an oil change will cure / help the problem?

(full recon box is

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All

 

How warm is "warmed up"? TIS is specific about the temp, but I have no way of reading the temp electronically. Would a 5 min run around the block get the box hot enough for instance?

 

It would also appear, from wytonpjs's experience, that a change will only take 3.5L , has anyone else experienced this? I don't want to buy too much.

 

Thanks

 

Steven

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  • 7 months later...
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Hi,

 

I've just changed/toped up the gearbox oil in my 2001 V6 (5 speed auto) and this is what I found:

 

1) It took all day to do (8:30 am - 8:30 pm). Needless to say my other half was non too pleased !

 

2) The diagrams attached in this thread are no relevant for the V6 autobox. On the bottom of the box there are seperate fill and drain nuts (as pointed out previously by wytonpjs) - a big 24mm nut - this is the drain plug & an overflow plug. The overflow plug that you remove to check the level only is a 14mm nut on the bottom of the box. There are lots of these on the autobox, but this this the only one on the bottom that is not used on an edge to bolt the sides of the box together.

 

3) To get the box warm I idled it for 10 minutes (no vag-com to test the temperature properly). The spec states you should have an oil temperature of 35-45 C which to my mind is hot-but-not-quite-scalding and 10 minutes idle seemed to do the trick.

 

4) As per other people here I could only get the oil from ford since I couldn't find the spec for it. If it helps anyone here is a picture of the bottle which may enable you to work out what this oil is:

 

post-10027-1190029959.png

 

5) The real time waster for this job is getting to the fill pipe. It is really really buried in the center of the engine bay under (what felt like about) 1000 cables and pipes. I suspect this is the reason there is a red collar is to aid identification. and you can only see it from under the car. Here is a (fairly bad) picture of the fill pipe with collar removed and the cap 1/2 way out:

 

post-10027-1190030558.jpg

 

(The cap is outlined in yellow and the metal fill pipe is outlined in red)

 

As you might be able to tell from the photo I've had to move quite a few of the electrical cable conduits and this picture is taken from where the auxiliary air pump is located. (yes, you do have to remove it first :ph34r: )

 

6) I got a piece of clear plastic tubing (about 10mm external diameter and 1 meter long) which fitted into the fill pipe perfectly. This was then passed up through the engine bay to a funnel which was then tie-wrapped to the bonnet catch.

 

 

I found I was about 600ml down in the end, so it was all worth the trouble !

 

 

sal_park

Edited by sal_park
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  • 8 months later...
Hi,

 

I've just changed/toped up the gearbox oil in my 2001 V6 (5 speed auto) and this is what I found:

 

1) It took all day to do (8:30 am - 8:30 pm). Needless to say my other half was non too pleased !

 

2) The diagrams attached in this thread are no relevant for the V6 autobox. On the bottom of the box there are seperate fill and drain nuts (as pointed out previously by wytonpjs) - a big 24mm nut - this is the drain plug & an overflow plug. The overflow plug that you remove to check the level only is a 14mm nut on the bottom of the box. There are lots of these on the autobox, but this this the only one on the bottom that is not used on an edge to bolt the sides of the box together.

 

3) To get the box warm I idled it for 10 minutes (no vag-com to test the temperature properly). The spec states you should have an oil temperature of 35-45 C which to my mind is hot-but-not-quite-scalding and 10 minutes idle seemed to do the trick.

 

4) As per other people here I could only get the oil from ford since I couldn't find the spec for it. If it helps anyone here is a picture of the bottle which may enable you to work out what this oil is:

 

post-10027-1190029959.png

 

5) The real time waster for this job is getting to the fill pipe. It is really really buried in the center of the engine bay under (what felt like about) 1000 cables and pipes. I suspect this is the reason there is a red collar is to aid identification. and you can only see it from under the car. Here is a (fairly bad) picture of the fill pipe with collar removed and the cap 1/2 way out:

 

post-10027-1190030558.jpg

 

(The cap is outlined in yellow and the metal fill pipe is outlined in red)

 

As you might be able to tell from the photo I've had to move quite a few of the electrical cable conduits and this picture is taken from where the auxiliary air pump is located. (yes, you do have to remove it first ;) )

 

6) I got a piece of clear plastic tubing (about 10mm external diameter and 1 meter long) which fitted into the fill pipe perfectly. This was then passed up through the engine bay to a funnel which was then tie-wrapped to the bonnet catch.

 

 

I found I was about 600ml down in the end, so it was all worth the trouble !

 

 

sal_park

 

 

the problem with changing autobox oil is that about two thirds of the fluid is stuck in side the torque converter and cannot be accessed easily, there is also quite a lot

in the clutch packs and pipes, in austrailia where they have lots of autos they use a charging station, this machine has its own pump and a supply of new fluid,

it does it via the oil cooler pipes, this way all of the fluid gets changed, we have arranged a simalar way of doing this, remove the oil cooler feed to the radiator

(if it has one) and leave the engine ticking with the pipe in to a container, this will pump out the old fluid, while this is happening keep topping up the

box via the dip stick tube, it will take a lot of fluid to do a complete change but this will ensure a complete change, auto boxes that do not have their fluid changed will

fail sooner than they should, the best guide the colour of the fluid, when it starts to gain a slightly brown tint it is time to change it, I have found that this starts to happen at about

60-70k with normal use,

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