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BrianH

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About BrianH

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    Super advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male

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  • Vehicle Type
    Galaxy Mk1 2l Petrol/LPG
  • Vehicle Model
    Ford
  • Region
    South East

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  1. you might find the parts list available here > http://catcar.info/en/ To help identify the part. Looks a bit like an engine mount thats got oil spilt on it to me, but bit hard to say for sure with the photo and no idea what engine/vehicle your dealing with there?
  2. You've seen the answer on the other site for all except the way the shock absorber goes. You want the wider bit at the top, if its the other way round, it will allow debris to collect inside it. Your photo looks correct to me.
  3. Maybe these on Ebay Flywheel https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/249648842 Clutch https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233882681501 Would obviously point you towards the seller to confirm they are suitable before purchase. Also with the flywheel you may wish to confirm its not previously been converted to a solid flywheel if its had a clutch previously?
  4. This might help > Taken from https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=70444 If the Electronic Parking Brake is not functioning it can be released manually. ! Operate the emergency release only if the vehicle is secured against rolling away. Open the upper level of the centre console and then raise the second level of the console. Hook up the floor of the centre console with a screw driver. Unclip the Release ?T? handle from its resting place on the floor of the vehicle. Pull the ?T? handle upwards until a noise is heard. The parking brake is now rele
  5. If i remember correctly this can be down to needing a shim in the gearbox somewhere, don't have the details to hand to give further info, but you should be able to find info on here. Would help to confirm what year and engine the Galaxy/Sharan/Alhambara your dealing with though. The other thing that could be a problem is the selector, again would help to confirm what your dealing with though.
  6. You can remove the handle quite easily in most cases. You need to open the door first, locate the single bolt that goes into the end of the handle and remove it (its a Torx bolt and you can see it looking at the edge of the door when its open). Then pulling the outer handle towards the hinge end of the door to release it (might need the key to get it to release), pull it outwards then the other way to finish extracting it. At some point in that process, you need the key to release it though. I think you could probabbly force it if you were to replace the paddle afterwards The only time th
  7. You might be best to try and get the door unlocking from the key. I'd guess its engaged the deadlock. Try working some wd40 or Gt85 or similar into the keyhole to see if you can get it moving again. Otherwise you might have to try and force the door open somehow - possibly the easiest way to do that would be to try and gain access through the door handle (drill out the barrel and replace it afterwards being one way to do that). You might have more luck with the battery disconnected trying the key as well. Once you get your way in there, you need to repair the wiring pro
  8. Really suggest you get hold of A vcds Lead. Even the cheap ones iff ebay will work with the free vcds Lite version. You really need to know what its complaining about to know where to go with it. Dodgy wire sounds a bit vague, maybe they haven't found it all?
  9. Well done getting it going again, Not sure what the email referred to is about though as don't think I ever got one. Though it might have got buried under many other emails!
  10. Also - the fuses have changed a few times over the life of these vehicles, so yours might be fuse 27. Really hard to guess without knowing what year of vehicle your asking about.
  11. From what I remember on the mk1 when i had that problem, it knocked out some other functions - the instrument cluster being one of them, it would reset every time you started the car (so trip counter was reset every time you took the key out) I think it may effect other functions as well, so best to put it back in when your driving it at least. Broken wires in the door gaiters are common on these, so you'd be well advised to check when you have the chance to do so as you don't want a wire managing to short out to something.
  12. You might want to have a look on the info on the other forum - sadly this one has a few issues, and isn't visited much anymore. https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-common-faults-and-problems/ford-galaxy-mk2-fuse-information-circuit-and-rating/ i think its fuse 32 you most likely want, though fuse 2 is also indicated to do with the doors as well. But if yours is a later mk2 (after 2006) it may be different. Door wires is the first place to start looking though as you already suspect. Be careful when putting the fuse back in - the car might try to lock itself, so keep the keys to ha
  13. I'd have a look under the seat, as you may find the loom already there (typically I've found Ford fit the loom but just leave the bits not needed unplugged). This won't solve missing the controls, unless they are on the seats themselves. But I've fitted eletric adjuster seats to a car that didn't have them previously and they worked straight away with no further effort needed (did have the height adjustment as electric, but the forward/back and tilt was manual originally)
  14. Its very broken - the fact you tried to get that to post 3 times before it went through sadly shows how broken it is. If you also look on the main page, a reply to a post doesn't bring the post to the top anymore, so you can only see a new post from the main screen and only if its the most recent new post as well. Unless its just me? But you must have noticed the new posts here by now are few and far between. Yes theres loads of useful info here, and it would be a shame to lose it, but its getting harder to actually find it now.
  15. I'm not convinced you will even see this as this forum is very broken, but if you do, then a suitable resistor bridging the clock sping output would prove if the clockspring is the culprit. It should switch the light off once you reset the code with vcds and stay off. People have been known to "fix" this fault that way before, not sure offhand what resistance is needed. The clock springs are different depending on spec level - buttons on the wheel. Bear in mind its checking for the correct resistance - and given your moving the wheel and it goes off, that would say its the clockspring as t
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